22nd April Illinois to Missouri

Sun came up strong and bright this morning and with it the realisation that I really had to fall back on why I wanted to complete this trip. That was to travel the route taken since the early 1920s by individuals and families seeking better lives in the West, escaping the Dust Bowl, going to war or just for the sheer pleasure of an open road. A route replaced by modern Interstates, that had its official designation stripped and at one point almost died but is now experiencing a revival and providing so much pleasure to thousands of anoraks like me each year. Already I’d met Brits, Germans, Canadians and of course Americans who were travelling all or part of the route like me.

If I tried to stop at all the places and attractions I’d read about or stumbled across I’d never complete the trip in the time I have. Each 10 miles of the route is worth a day’s visit.

So, loins girded – well you have to on a bike – and it doesn’t mean what I thought it did – I  set off to ride across the final bit of Illinois and cross over into Missouri.

Again a terrific drive along roads with little traffic and peppered with businesses obviously trading on the Route 66 revival but of course thereby helping in that revival. The route was still easy to follow thanks to the signs which I admit I don’t know if they are put up by the State or the Route 66 Association – they even gave you a choice if the alignment had changed over the years.

 

The change in the countryside in this south west corner of Illinois was dramatic the flat plains giving way to rolling hills and wooded valleys. Saw a couple of deer -  alive, which was good (I’d seen scores as road kill- and an armadillo – dead, which is a pity as they are apparently quite rare in this part of the country.

Coming down from one of those hills I saw St Louis, Missouri spread out in front of me and rising from its centre the gigantic Gateway Arch.  I had a decision to make about routes, time and safety and the one I took was to drive round St Louis so didn’t get too close to the Arch though so no photos.

Then, coming down the hill I rode across the mighty Mississippi River – on my own bike – can’t describe that feeling!

Can though describe being par-boiled. As a wise friend always says to me, be careful what you wish for – well I had wished for better weather and lo, I got it. By noon it was 20 deg C and mid-afternoon 24!  As I’d set off with my Nanook of the North undies on in anticipation of those loins being frozen again I began to perspire a wee bit. I pulled into the visitor centre and did some major disrobing. A problem in itself as when I put things on the ground they got covered in melting tar from the asphalt – and it was freezing yesterday for goodness sake. At least though I can at last wear the Official Trip Cap presented by 2 very good friends.

 

The route was more difficult to follow in the north of Missouri – it had more breaks and dead ends and the signage didn’t seem as good – but further south it got better and alternated between tracking parallel to the new Interstate and then wandering of to do its own thing in hills and forests more redolent of New England. 

 AND spring has sprung here the dark greens of the Firs mixed with the light greens of new buds and a beautiful pinky/mauve blossom of a tree which I again have to admit I yet don’t know looks stunning.

Rode through towns where they obviously have a drink problem,

where graffiti is acceptable

 and where someone very large lives....

 

Then put a wiggle on as the sky began to darken and I could see rain in the distance and admit pulled on to the Interstate a bit to get to Lebanon for the night – it’s a town honest. 


And at last I can say it.......I'm only 24 hours from Tulsa!