Day 3 on Camino.. 154 miles travelled from Carrion de Los Condos to Ponferrada.
Another wonderful day, seen a lot, learned a lot.
Started well after a good night’s sleep, helped in the main
I guess by the large glasses of wine I had last night at El Local or whatever it
was called. Took the sage advice of walking past the bars with “Pilgrim” menus “and
found one frequented by locals, well local men anyway.
The place where as the
drinks flow then absolute rubbish is spoken with absolute conviction with
absolutely no knowledge. Eggs, potatoes, chorizo and salad and several glasses
of wine for tuppence, brilliant. Bet it’s not in the guide book though.
And, as my language base now includes toast, ham and cheese
I had a decent breakfast before setting off – still no friends though, unless
you count the Camino and she’s a bit fickle.
Immediately we left my night stop at Carrion de los Condes
she decided to clear off across country following an old Roman Road, the Via
Aquitania which wasn’t built for motor bikes funnily enough. Was a bit
disappointed as I was only 10 miles from the halfway point and wanted to be
able to share it.
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| Half way - 390 km to go. |
Well, ain’t it good when a plan comes together! My amazing
map reading skills and nerdy planning let me shoot off and then intercept the
Camino at Km 391 in a small, very small , hamlet Calzadilla de la Cueza –
aren’t their names beautiful, we have Gunthorpe and Swinefleet.
Took time there to watch a few pilgrims come in on foot and
bike, some punching the air as they got in, only another 390 km to go – did I
mention my respect for them.
The Camino then let me travel with her for some 184 km to
tonight’s stop, the first 130 across the dry, hot – it was 28 deg by then –
plain and then climbing up through steep craggy woodland to the highest point
on the Camino before dropping down again through the most fascinating villages
I’ve ever experienced and certainly wouldn’t have discovered if The Camino
hadn’t let me share her secrets.
Sometimes we travelled side by side but often now we shared the same road exactly.
I say road advisedly because being the woman she obviously
is she did lead me on occasionally until I was well out of my comfort zone and had to turn back and go the more sensible route.
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| Still, nice spot to have a snack! |
Again just spent the day riding and thinking - sometimes
just riding - and enjoying the various
monuments, signs and symbols that adorn the Camino and wondering what stories lay
behind them.
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| This one I think meant pack in and get a hire car! |
At last I found some happy sunflowers, realised on closer reflection that they were happy because the main crop had been harversted and
these were survivors celebrating their freedom, may they go on and breed more
happy litl;e sunflowers, the world needs them more than vegetable oil!
I did note that the majority of people were on their
own, yes there were couples and a few groups of 4 or 5 but mostly solo travellers.
At one point - the Cruz de Ferro I saw a bus drop around 50 people off who were
then led away by a guy in a big-game hunter’s jacket and hat. A guided walk
presumably but looked more like a chain gang and not very enjoyable.
Mind you, if I am to be honest I have to admit that at this
moment in time I don’t think I could find walking the whole Camino totally
enjoyable. The scenery and solitude yes, in the country side but today I went
through a coupe ofl large cities, Leon and Ponferrada and several large towns
and here the Camino follows quite busy roads through industrial areas, less
celoubrious neighbourhood and busty centrses bustling with traffic. Not my cup
of tea.
Passed the Cruz de Ferro at the top of the Camino, a pagan sight origionally I'm told but now one of the must do experiences is leave a stone from home on the increasing pilke and dedicate to family and friends. Quitecoincidently, when I visited my dad's grave in Haxey just before I left for this trip someone had put a stone on his headstone. Don't know who had put it there as it is not something we do as a family. Whoever it was, then I apologise as it seemed fate that I brought it with me and Froggy helped me put it on the cross.
Dropping down from that summit I went tgrough some of the most fascinating villages on the trip so far. In one, Acebo, the houses had amazing wooden balconies jutting out into the already narrow main (read only) street. Some with beautiful carvings.
Past this very macho looking rocket at the Artilliary HQ but it was not to be the only one .... see below ...
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| The entrance to my stay for the night |
Anyway, I go on ... Its not about arriving they say, it’s the getting there.
Well that’s a good job cos when I arrived I was faced with this, yes that
second rocket I mentioned. A museum, or rather a defunct museum as it happened
but yes, it was where I had booked on t’internet.
Seemed to be run a guy who I though was my age but turns out to
be 10 years older – look at that whichever way you choose and alady I initially assumed to be his wife, lets
call them Jose and Maria.
Now there are about 12 rooms in this establishemnet and looks like I'm
the only guest. Treated like a long lost relative I am – would I like dinner, yes I would please.Stay with me and bear in mind this is all taking place in broken Spanglais.
When I go down for dinner the theme of no friends continues.
There are 9 tables, 8 set for 6, 1 set for 1, yep that’s me. Menu, no menu Jose makes suggestions … and
here is where I think it went wrong.
Proud as I’ve been of my vocabulary to
date, I haven’t really got past ham, cheese
etc. although as you know Im fluent in
cheese in both Spanish and Basque.The finer points such as “and” and “or” haven’t been touched so when Jose
mentioned dishes I though “or” but he read ”and”.
The first course of dried meats, cheese, bread, wine – whole
bottle, no label served with a flourish by Jose went down a treat. Then came potatoes and some cooked animal
served by Maria with a friendly “My treat” in English.
Not so good this, but so as not to offend, and assuming that was the
main course I ate more than I really wanted. I looked up “I enjoyed that very
much” on my phone and that comment was met with a smile from Maria. Enter Jose
with a plate of ham, eggs, roast peppers and salad. Oh gawd. I tried gamely. No desert menu thankfully, but … enter Jose
with the speciality “made with milk”.
Abiscuit in cutard, probably sounds better in Spanish.
Note to self- learn “AND and “OR”.
I wrote that last night before the power went off and with it wi-fi and I meant it to be ammusing, making fun of both myself and I admit Jose.
Well, this morning came the humble pie. Turns out Jose real name Bernard Guerrero Reyero is a retired Paedeatrician and Professor of Medicine and runs a foundation school for children in The Gambia
Bernards Foundation
What can I say ....
Off to Sarria now, 120km away wher I leave my bike and start walking tomorrow. Getting anxious I admit.
Bye ...
Ps poor internet and power cuts last night so rushed ....forgive typos. J
