Tuesday 23 April 2013

23rd April - From Missouri, through Kansas to Oklahoma in a day!


Try this 

 https://maps.google.ca/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=200059512251364914226.0004daba15b3107f38ef0

to view map!

Well didn’t it rain!  Violent thunder storm in the night and woke up to heavy, persistent downpour. What is it with the weather in this country? It would have been stupid to set off in it, roads were flooded and visibility poor. So nothing to do but have a relaxed breakfast and see if it eases.

I’d hoped to make Tulsa today but that looked unlikely now.
Around 11am there was a break so off to Oklahoma via Kansas we go….

 
Once on the road it was great, really felt that I actually was now following an historic route. It moved away from the Interstate which at this point had been driven straight and level through the terrain and again took the meandering “easy” route round hills and through valleys, only occasionally going through blasted rock.
 

 In many places it was in its original state of slabbed concrete, in others more modern tarmac which had deteriorated to impassability – see later!!!
 
 

The persistent rain discouraged too many stops – it’s always drier on the bike if you keep moving – and so not many photos but the memories just built up and you’ll have to take my word for it turning out to be a really exciting, memorable ride.
 
 

Those trees were out again – now know they are Red Bud Trees ( ok Cercis Canadensis Roger!) – they must have been well down on the naming list because this is a really unimaginative, not to say downright inaccurate, name.
 

This corner of Missouri is, as I’ve already said, really beautiful but that changed as I rode through Kansas – for a whole 12 miles.
 
 
It’s hardly fair as I’m sure it’s the economy which has driven it but those Kansas towns, Galena, Riverton, Baxter Springs  were really run down, desolate places – maybe the rain didn’t help.
Some elements of humour though...
No idea.... but that's a real pick-up!
The temperature dropped during the day, down to 4 deg eventually before the wind chill factor and the cold inevitable crept in. For a bit of respite and determined to enjoy a bit of local hospitality rather than cop out on a Burger King I went into an independent “restaurant” and had probably the worst meal I have ever experienced, served by a lovely woman who unfortunately hasn’t taken advice of the teeth and glass variety. Hey it all adds to the fabric of a good trip!
I did though strike up a conversation with a guy who sang the place's praises as he tucked into something resembling the unfortunate armadillo I’d seen yesterday. As with most of the conversations I’ve had with locals when they realise I’m from England they circled around Margaret Thatcher, terrorists and gun control. On the latter subject this guy had no doubts – the world would be a safer place if everybody carried a gun “hell I do” he said as he moved his jacket and showed me a small howitzer in a shoulder holster. “Do you need a permit to carry a concealed weapon?” I naively asked. “Probably” he replied.
Some of the gardens/yards around the houses were, well interesting. Don’t know if the stuff lying around was being left to return to nature or was part of a planned project. One in particular had all the ingredients of perfect projects for my old friend Dave & I.
A couple of fixer uppers!
The roads going through the towns in Kansas where just as uncared for. If they were now unused, as some were, that’s ok, but some were connecting roads used regularly but honestly they and the areas they ran through had that post 3rd World War feel.
 
 
Part of the historic road that wasn’t in daily use beat me eventually. Without such a heavy load and in the dry I might have persevered but with a top box, tank bag and 2 stuffed panniers on a surface of slippery clay I daren’t go on and turned around.
 

 
 
 
 I later found the end of that stretch of road and noting it’s history am at least pleased I rode a bit of it. It says this is the only remaining section of the original 9ft pavement of the old Route 66 System. It was completed in 1922 and taken out of commission in 1937.

Crossed over into Oklahoma and immediately the countryside and properties seemed more cared for – strange.
Made good progress then still on the old route and did make Tulsa after all but was so cold.
On watching the weather channel later I saw that there were floods around the State, the area had had the wettest few days ever recorded and that the temperatures were at record lows.

I’m gonna hate the plague of locusts and frogs that tomorrow will no doubt bring.