Sunday 15 September 2019

Made it this year .... well to the start anyway.

A short blast from last night's wonderful accommodation - and equally wonderful breakfast and I've arrived in St Jean Pied de Port. 


Originally the main Pilgrim town was St Jean le-Vieux but in 1177 Richard the Lionheart and his men had a party there and destroyed the place - or something like that - and so the locals moved here, the "Pied de Port" meaning "foot of the pass" so that they couldn't be surprised by stag parties etc again.

Port de Notre Dam
 They say that spiritually your pilgrimage starts at your own door step, but traditionally pilgrims started The Way of St James by walking through the Port de Notre Dam .....


crossing the Vieux Pont des Pelerins  (Old Pilgrims Bridge) – guess I qualify as an “old pilgrim” .....
The Vieux Pont des Pelerins


Rue d'Espagne
... along the Rue d'Espagne...... and then leaving St Jean Pied de Porte via the Porte d’Espagne.
 At this point the full Camino is before you, 484.6 miles to Santiago de Compostela.

It is currently 30 deg C here at the moment so I admit I’m pleased I’m not setting off to walk that today.     Mind you, prepared as I am this guy is a little scary … 





     
   I’ve had a wander around town and got the things I need –                             such as my “Carnet de Pelerin” and obligatory free scallop shell –                 the emblem of the Camino from the official Camino Office- and                   some things I don’t, such as a sticker for the bike – I know!


I nearly bought a Basque beret, great colours available ...



AND it would guarantee I’d make friends.



Well, know I’d need to shed the glasses, and calm the red nose, and smooth a few wrinkles and …. Well anyway I enjoy my own company.







Did find one shop recommended by Mark the host from the previous night, The Spice Shop. Words and photos can’t do it justice – absolutely every spice you have heard of and hundreds you haven’t.





And of course beer by that well known Basque brewer, Bob!









Walked the city walls and got my first view of the Pyrenees.                                                   


Feel a bit of a fraud sitting here as St Jean is a real touristy place and in this weather it feels like a proper holiday resort. I promise I’ll rough it later!


Not that tonight will be the height of luxury, Gite Compostela is clean enough and the owner Christophe can’t do enough but the fact that towels and sheets etc are an extra says a bit!

Not paying that extra though as I’ve laid out enough on my super sleeping bag, anti-bedbug line and mega absorbent travel towel.   Be prepared I say!


Then, a couple of beers and writing this before going back to shower, a mega absorbent rub down and finding somewhere for tea, being on the border tapas sounds good.

I know, I’m a little anoraky with all the books and planning but Froggy and I are happy and we are not bothering anyone.






A PS though ..........   20 mins after finishing the beer the heavens opened - where have the Pyranes gone?

 Perhaps that scary guy had the right idea.