Black Forest to the Black Sea - Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Cold, Cold Faces

 I've mentioned the language problem and I know we all experience it when we go to a country whose language we haven't bothered to learn but here I've experienced an issue for the first time in my travels ... the cold definite "Nem!"    No.

It is confusing, well at least to an aging brain like mine, as when you ask for something and perhaps have to go through a Master's level of Charades to a point where you think you may be understood and you get that response "Nem!"  it's reasonable I think to assume that whatever you want is unavailable.

For example, you try miming butter when you haven't got the bread with you...a tip .. it is very similar to a mime to determine if the breaded stuff you see in front of you is fish  ... without the splishy splashy noises obviously.?  It wasn't it was pork and very delicious too.

But I digress, having determined that madam shopkeeper didn't have butter I found it in the Chiller. But when I took it to the counter there wasn't a flicker of ... well anything.

Why do I travel ... well I read and then something catches my imagination. Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath was my inspiration to go to Oklahoma --- Route 66 was a bonus. I read this in a guide book  " ... the fields are on fire in the fall when the paprika is ripe and ready to be picked. The blazing red colours create an unforgettable view ..."  Let's face it, you are going to want to see that. No? Have you no soul?

The Paprika Museum Kilocsa, Hungary

And ... there was a Paprika Museum. Yes I kid you not  ...  in Kilocsa the self proclaimed capital of Paprika Production.

As museums of local production it is really interesting, one of the best I've been too... mind you, as the Pencil Museum in Keswick is on my list it's a pretty low bar.

I was keen to get out into those "flaming fields" and although they didn't really live up to the hype they were great to see, fields and fields along the route.

Now, as my family know, flexibility is the 4th dimension of planning, well my planning. And the route for this trip is based on the Velo 6 Danube Cycle Trail ... as in pedal cycle ... did you ever call them push-bikes ... and so sometimes this intrepid explorer on a wonderful motorcycle could not boldly go where the lycra brigade could.

I guess if I'd been Ewan McGregor on one of his sponsored BMW GS's it would have been a walk in the park but my trusty Pan was not having the sand and gravel so back we go.

After going the Long Way Round ... get it, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman, no, ok ...  tonight's stop came in site ... Baja, still in Hungary.

    and well worth the journey.

And I've done 905 miles since Donaueschingen and as the Danube is 1770 miles long I should now be over half way. Perhaps not quite given I do get lost a bit but still on target to get to the Black Sea for my birthday.

                     Here's hoping.