Wednesday 17 June 2015

Wednesday 17th June - Crossing Swedish Lapland

It’s been a great day today but mainly in a “you had to be there” kind of way.  The temperature has been up in the mid-teens, sun out and lovely dry, sticky, windy roads.
Was a really great feel good day – wind in my hair – ok on my forehead - flies in my teeth job.

But, before I get to all that, I’ve got more stuff from my friend Gary – you know I think every home should have a domesticated American, they are really handy. You should really be able to get one on the NHS (that’s our public health service G) – they do wonders for relieving stress. I’ve looked and looked at how to get a map on the blog and he does it before breakfast. It came about because Gary asked if I was coming down the same was as I went up and it was easier to show on a map than verbally.

Here are the maps that Gary so kindly prepared .....


Going up....





still going up...



Coming down.




I’m not, as you can see coming back the same way.. Going north via Norway was wonderful but for every mile north you had to go 50 around Fjords and coastlines. Coming south through Finland and Sweden, as well as seeing the different countries, is more direct and the speed limits are kinder. 


The Swedes are just as careful/anxious/nervous/dithery drivers as the Norwegians though – in England to survive on a bike you have to think “What could that **** possible do?” and usually they do it. Here it’s almost the other way, if you try and give way when you actually have the right of way or if you indicate to let them past because you are slowing to look at something you’ll likely both be there till Christmas.

Anyway, enough.  Today I dropped down from Avidsjaur to Ostersund.where I am now.

Just done 4000 miles, that is 1000 miles since I turned round at Nordkapp. For some reason I can’t explain I’m about 500 over what I calculated - though I do turn round and go back to things a lot!!! – and I have about another 1500 miles to do to get home.

The countryside has been about perfect. Still lots of forests, lakes and rivers but those hills from which to get a view of it all. If I’d stopped to photograph every breath-taking lake or river vista I’d still be out there so just a few.





Love this one though 




Look at it upside down....


When I set off I naively bought a Scandinavian phrase book intending to at least try and say a few pleasantries – more on that later – but that is a total nonstarter.
The book itself is difficult but even iif I could grasp Can you tell me the way to - Kan du berätta vägen till …” which seems pretty intuitive, what chance would I have if I wanted to go to this place?



At least today though I did see a place I could say…. That’s on the way in though!   





These are a couple of other “Don’t know” pics. The first in Arvidsjaur where I stayed overnight - a family of Mooses - I've still not seen signs of any real ones, the second in Stromsund....













As regards the second I guess the Jolly Green one needed a day off. Actually, I do know about that one now having read my guide book, it’s the Wildman, the towns emblem, brandishing his club he’s the traditional symbol for Lapland encapsulating strength, riches and determination – so not sweetcorn then.

I saw a lot more reindeer today – I know what I promised but I admit to being thrilled when I do see them.









And this which I was excited about but think it’s a Common Crane, would be wouldn’t it.





What has been noticeable today is that there are now genuinely old buildings. The total devastation that occurred in the Second World War didn’t reach down here.
There were therefore museums in original old buildings – this is one in Avidsjaur ...













and ordinary villages that looked as though they were part of a heritage museum.

This one was stuck out in nowhere and could have been the village time forgot – except for the vehicles of course.







I ‘ve seen a lot of the word Loppis around -  usually on old, tatty looking buildings so thought it might mean for sale or keep off – no it means  Flea Market – this one was Stangt, closed, breeding more fleas no doubt. The buildings are great though don’t you think?


Parking up in Stromsund I saw this sign and if it is correct I may drive home via Hong Kong!!










                                                                   and then when I was sitting in a cafe having lunch I saw this great invention, a Granny Scooter.  Not good shots but look, uphill it's a walking aid, down hill it's a scooter








Oh, and about those pleasantries – the Swedes appear as reluctant to engage as the Norwegians. And again I don’t mean to be offensive, it’s just a different approach. None of the “familiarity” of more southern Europeans. If you walk in to a breakfast room and say “Good morning” generally you are looked at gone out! Again though all very friendly if you do have to communicate.

Now settled in a small hotel in the centre of  Ostersund. It is in a pedestrian precinct so had to park my bike some distance away and carry my stuff here. That was abit of a pain but cheered up by these little dragon litter bins







And on that happy note .........Night night