Arrived in Canterbury and wonderful reception at the Cathedral, thank you. 3016 miles done, 350 odd to go. And in lovely English sunshine ....
Wednesday 2 October 2019
Thursday 26 September 2019
The End of the World - - Cabo Fisterre
Got a bus back to Sarria yesterday and picked the bike up. Today rode out to Cabo Fisterre (or Finisterre depending on your language).
The Romans thought that this was the earth's westernmost point and therefore that the world ended here.
Not as atmospheric as some Capes I've been to but still a beautiful place.
It's about a further 90 km walk on from Santiago de Compestela and lots of Pilgrims were adding it on to their route. Remember what I said about respect.
So glad to be back on the bike! 1733 miles done so far, time to turn round.
Tuesday 24 September 2019
Made it .... and a day early!
Another very enjoyable meal time chatting – if make friends then try and hang on to them – this time though with lots of coffee flowing and then on way.
You can’t always explain why can you, but with some people you really hit it off, and so rather than setting off alone as usual and at actually a quite reasonable pace for an old ‘un I ambled along for some 5 or 6 km with the "Unlikely Pilgrim" double act.
Most of the time I walked with Javier - for that was his name, and hip and leg issues meant he walked very slowly and hoovered pain killers - whilst Felicia, his partner, followed on singing and waving her hands about like the luvvie she was. Noabout and a couple of hours of my life I will remember with fondness for ever. I left them at a cafe where Javier was forced to stop, saying goodbye reluctantly after a coffee to celebrate his birthday which was today.
The countryside became more wooded than previously and with many more varieties of trees
I was making really good time, so much so that I reached my planned overnight stop at O Pedrouza just after lunch. A decision then, kill time there with a lay down and no doubt an Estrella, or push on the final 20 km and then allow myself a whole day off tomorrow.
As the predicted storm hadn’t materialised I made the decision to carry on to Santiago.
Eased off a bit later but kept making its presence felt then all the way to Santiago and as the day went on a bit of doubt began to creep in about the wisdom of trying to cut out a day.
However, because I was walking later than most pilgrims - and given the weather sensible ones would have retired to various hostelries – it became a much quieter and a very personal Camino.
Lots of stuff still to see,
This won’t have any significance to other than my 2 daughters
As I got closer to Santiago the way signs change ...
some more elaborate
Some simpler...
all though very welcome as they counted down the miles, or kilometres I suppose.
Not perhaps as welcome as this sign ..
under 10 miles to go!
As I got to the outskirts of Santiago the going got a bit gruelling, hard pavement and traffic
Know the feeling mate ...
But then my first glimpse of the Cathedral and a new gear engaged
though made a note of this place
BUT, A few more yards and .......
Made it, and a bit chuffed .....
A day early, 115km, lots of wonderful memories, a few aches and a couple of bisters!
Another dream realised.
If you've travelled with me, thank you for your company. A day of rest then off back to Sarria to pick up my bike!
Then, the End of The World, watch this space!
Monday 23 September 2019
Apologies ...
I've had messages of concern that i didn't write anything last night, and i thank my friends for that. I’d like to be able to say that I fell into a ravine, or was attacked by wild boars but No, it was a simple case of too much entente cordial, not that there was much cordial involved.
I ended up in a B and B last night, not a hostel. It was also 8km off the Camino which I hadn’t realised when hammering Booking.com. This meant I had to phone Daniel, the owner when I arrived in Arzua and arrange pick-up. That was fine, until I found I shared the pick up with 2 of the most unlikely pilgrims I’d as yet experienced.
On arrival at the B and B, a really beautiful home to be honest, my host Daniel then began reciting house rules more akin to Mrs Scroggins guest house in Filey so I'm really looking forward to the stay.
Dinner would be at 8. And, surprise surprise, what a dinner it was, absolutely delicious with lots of vino tinto!
I then learned that my fellow guest were an actress and her radio broadcaster partner from Alicante. Brexit came up, more vino tint went down!
Then learned that Janet, the hostess with the mostest praised in Trip Advisor comments was no more. Well, actually she was but no longer associated with mine current host Daniel, apparently she was wife, soon to be ex, number 3. She had got the dog, he the cat but they had reciprocal visitng rights every fortnight. Daniel was a lawyer who had suffered a heart attack and so now kept the B and B. All this was learned over more vino tinto.
Then arrived a Swiss Domestic Science teacher - quite mad, who had already walked 900 km since the beginning of August, yes 900, and an Italian nurse. Welcome. More.... well you are getting my drift.
The accumulated effect was that either my phone shrank, unlikely, or my fingers swelled cos I couldn’t seem to operate the key board. I apologise.
To catch up then, yesterday actually started as normal, another day another .... kilometre! Only those kilometres would be done in the rain given the morning I woke up to. Mind you, think how annoyed I would be if I had carried all my wet weather gear for no purpose at all other than adding to my pack weight. Anyway, what ever you think about Europe v Britain, one thing we can match them on is rain so bring it on Galicia.
It wasn’t cold though so after a short while on the Camino it became a “boil in a bag" experience.
As before, the heavy weather concentrated your mind on the walk and why you were doing it rather than beautiful views. I caught up with Bo, the Psychologist, again and learned that he is a well respected and much published expert on Dangerousness and risk assessment of mad and/or bad offenders.
We had a light hearted conversation about shared expetiences!
Good to learn too that I wasn't the oldest guy on the Camino ...
Great hat eh, at some point I lost my hat, something I'm wont to do when walking. This one has a twin somewhere on Mam Tor.
I wandered on and it dried out and I was able to appreciate the fascinating countryside and architecture around me.
I now know these structures are granaries designed to keep rats out but grain fresh.
Was a slight moment if concern when, at a stop for a healthy breakfast I saw this article for sale, must be coming up to bandit country.
And I’m pleased that someone has some respect for these amazing old carts.
Was a tough day though to be honest. 29 km through hilly country with half of M&S, Boots and Go Outdoors on your back is no easy task.
Had some respite at the church of St Maria de Melide where I lit a candle for friends who are going through bad times at the moment
and then, true to form had recuperation therapy
prior to being picked up with said unlikely pilgrims. You know the rest ....
Cheers ...
I ended up in a B and B last night, not a hostel. It was also 8km off the Camino which I hadn’t realised when hammering Booking.com. This meant I had to phone Daniel, the owner when I arrived in Arzua and arrange pick-up. That was fine, until I found I shared the pick up with 2 of the most unlikely pilgrims I’d as yet experienced.
On arrival at the B and B, a really beautiful home to be honest, my host Daniel then began reciting house rules more akin to Mrs Scroggins guest house in Filey so I'm really looking forward to the stay.
Dinner would be at 8. And, surprise surprise, what a dinner it was, absolutely delicious with lots of vino tinto!
I then learned that my fellow guest were an actress and her radio broadcaster partner from Alicante. Brexit came up, more vino tint went down!
Then learned that Janet, the hostess with the mostest praised in Trip Advisor comments was no more. Well, actually she was but no longer associated with mine current host Daniel, apparently she was wife, soon to be ex, number 3. She had got the dog, he the cat but they had reciprocal visitng rights every fortnight. Daniel was a lawyer who had suffered a heart attack and so now kept the B and B. All this was learned over more vino tinto.
Then arrived a Swiss Domestic Science teacher - quite mad, who had already walked 900 km since the beginning of August, yes 900, and an Italian nurse. Welcome. More.... well you are getting my drift.
The accumulated effect was that either my phone shrank, unlikely, or my fingers swelled cos I couldn’t seem to operate the key board. I apologise.
To catch up then, yesterday actually started as normal, another day another .... kilometre! Only those kilometres would be done in the rain given the morning I woke up to. Mind you, think how annoyed I would be if I had carried all my wet weather gear for no purpose at all other than adding to my pack weight. Anyway, what ever you think about Europe v Britain, one thing we can match them on is rain so bring it on Galicia.
It wasn’t cold though so after a short while on the Camino it became a “boil in a bag" experience.
As before, the heavy weather concentrated your mind on the walk and why you were doing it rather than beautiful views. I caught up with Bo, the Psychologist, again and learned that he is a well respected and much published expert on Dangerousness and risk assessment of mad and/or bad offenders.
 |
| Bo, the Psychologist |
We had a light hearted conversation about shared expetiences!
Good to learn too that I wasn't the oldest guy on the Camino ...
Great hat eh, at some point I lost my hat, something I'm wont to do when walking. This one has a twin somewhere on Mam Tor.
I wandered on and it dried out and I was able to appreciate the fascinating countryside and architecture around me.
I now know these structures are granaries designed to keep rats out but grain fresh.
Was a slight moment if concern when, at a stop for a healthy breakfast I saw this article for sale, must be coming up to bandit country.
Was a tough day though to be honest. 29 km through hilly country with half of M&S, Boots and Go Outdoors on your back is no easy task.
and then, true to form had recuperation therapy
prior to being picked up with said unlikely pilgrims. You know the rest ....
Cheers ...
Saturday 21 September 2019
Food for thought.....
Day 6 on the Camino. 25 km from Portomarin to Palas de Rei.
A day of contrasts today, some wonderful experiences, moments of reflection and contemplation I won’t bore you with and some, ok one, I shudder when I recall it.
Let’s start with confessions though. I never learn, I open my mouth, or in this case keyboard, and make flippant comments about a situation or object for a cheap laugh only to later find out there's actually a more serious background story – take Jose and Maria eh!
Well, so it was with the steps at the entrance to Portomarin. I've now learned that until 1963 Portomarin was actually in the valley bottom by the then small Mino River. Then a hydro-electric dam was built 30km downstream and the little river became the Belesar Reservoir. Portomarin was completely engulfed and it’s residents relocated to the new site up the valley side.
It is this reservoir that the new bridge I walked across to get into Portomarin Mark two.
The archway and steps I derided are from the original Roman bridge that crossed the Mino at that same point. Apparently at times of low water levels you can see the remains of the old bridge.
And another fact – I know sorry – the church of St Nicholas Parish, the Romanesque building in the square – I can read signs – was actually a 12 century fortress church built to protect the original bridge and moved stone by stone and rebuilt on the new town before it too was drowned.
It was that church that I manfully marched past with my knapsack on my back at 7.30 this morning.
Not much “ Val de re" though as once out of the street lights I couldn’t see a thing and all my head torch showed me was the wrong track. When in total darkness and total silence it dawned on me I must be wrong and I slinked not so manfully (or some would say typically manfully) back.
My new game of guess what distance the first marker you can read in daylight went on a bit but was a pleasant surprise to find I got to 88 km from Santiago quite quickly.
More bits by the side of the road today so experienced the Camino
from another angle, no longer being the fastest mode of transport .
As it was overcast and raining that fine missely stuff for most of the day it closed down the views and made you focus on yourself or around you. A bit deep perhaps but there seems to be a Camino etiquette about talking, mostly it’s a “Buen Camino” so you never know the greeters nationality anyway but if there is something that indicates a common language then it’s ok to say a but more but you must watch body language to see if they then want leaving to their own thoughts. If you do chat awhile you then need to be able to disengage and again it appears acceptable to do this without explanation or offence.
Fascinating though what you learn about people in a few hundred metres or so. John from Brechin, Ontario, coincidentally only a few miles from where my favourite youngest lived ‘til last year, who was carrying his mother's ashes to Santiago, Bo From Copenhagen who had just retired from 40 some years as a child psychologist working with abused kids and who needed to shed trauma and cynicism. A man who had just had the all clear after cancer , a lady from Cape Town who had properties in London and was very cross about people like me who were only walking the minimum when she had walked do far! Nurses from Taiwan, mother and daughter from Ireland ...
Passed a lot more statues and tributes ....
And this old cart that should be loved in a museum, not left in a field. Look at those wheels!
But today I did a lot of self-reflection some good , some not so good but about which I’ll say nowt other than this pilgrimage is delivering exactly what it offers;
“Pilgrims on the way to Santiago have the opportunity for personal reflection and prayer as well as enjoying the fellowship of other pilgrims from many different countries”.
The incident that leaves a shudder?. When I arrived at digs tonight I found it was above a bar and as the staff were busy they gave me a beer and a complimentary bowl of the house speciality. Looked lovely and tasted spicy, certainly chorizo, some bacon, chickpeas and .... inch squares of tripe. Not wishing to appear ungrateful or offend I tried one piece... I can’t go on!
On a lighter note, one of the things I did learn about myself last night is that the beard goes. You will have noticed that in the weight cull my electric razor got dumped. Thought I was cultivating this enigmatic, traveller of the world look. Apparently not so. Last night when the rain started I got up to move the restaurant table I was sitting at to under the shelters balcony. The table was aluminium and could have been lifted one handed by anyone between 14 and 90. I lifted it but then put it straight back down to look where it could go and a young thing of 60 ish dashed across from his table to help me thinking I couldn’t manage. Bugger that. It’s got a date with the razor in a few days.
Good night, going for my cocoa and bed now ...
A day of contrasts today, some wonderful experiences, moments of reflection and contemplation I won’t bore you with and some, ok one, I shudder when I recall it.
Let’s start with confessions though. I never learn, I open my mouth, or in this case keyboard, and make flippant comments about a situation or object for a cheap laugh only to later find out there's actually a more serious background story – take Jose and Maria eh!
Well, so it was with the steps at the entrance to Portomarin. I've now learned that until 1963 Portomarin was actually in the valley bottom by the then small Mino River. Then a hydro-electric dam was built 30km downstream and the little river became the Belesar Reservoir. Portomarin was completely engulfed and it’s residents relocated to the new site up the valley side.
It is this reservoir that the new bridge I walked across to get into Portomarin Mark two.
The archway and steps I derided are from the original Roman bridge that crossed the Mino at that same point. Apparently at times of low water levels you can see the remains of the old bridge.
 |
| The old Roman Bridge at low water! |
And another fact – I know sorry – the church of St Nicholas Parish, the Romanesque building in the square – I can read signs – was actually a 12 century fortress church built to protect the original bridge and moved stone by stone and rebuilt on the new town before it too was drowned.
It was that church that I manfully marched past with my knapsack on my back at 7.30 this morning.
Not much “ Val de re" though as once out of the street lights I couldn’t see a thing and all my head torch showed me was the wrong track. When in total darkness and total silence it dawned on me I must be wrong and I slinked not so manfully (or some would say typically manfully) back.
My new game of guess what distance the first marker you can read in daylight went on a bit but was a pleasant surprise to find I got to 88 km from Santiago quite quickly.
More bits by the side of the road today so experienced the Camino
As it was overcast and raining that fine missely stuff for most of the day it closed down the views and made you focus on yourself or around you. A bit deep perhaps but there seems to be a Camino etiquette about talking, mostly it’s a “Buen Camino” so you never know the greeters nationality anyway but if there is something that indicates a common language then it’s ok to say a but more but you must watch body language to see if they then want leaving to their own thoughts. If you do chat awhile you then need to be able to disengage and again it appears acceptable to do this without explanation or offence.
Fascinating though what you learn about people in a few hundred metres or so. John from Brechin, Ontario, coincidentally only a few miles from where my favourite youngest lived ‘til last year, who was carrying his mother's ashes to Santiago, Bo From Copenhagen who had just retired from 40 some years as a child psychologist working with abused kids and who needed to shed trauma and cynicism. A man who had just had the all clear after cancer , a lady from Cape Town who had properties in London and was very cross about people like me who were only walking the minimum when she had walked do far! Nurses from Taiwan, mother and daughter from Ireland ...
Passed a lot more statues and tributes ....
..... And wondered what stories lay behind them
And this old cart that should be loved in a museum, not left in a field. Look at those wheels!
But today I did a lot of self-reflection some good , some not so good but about which I’ll say nowt other than this pilgrimage is delivering exactly what it offers;
“Pilgrims on the way to Santiago have the opportunity for personal reflection and prayer as well as enjoying the fellowship of other pilgrims from many different countries”.
The incident that leaves a shudder?. When I arrived at digs tonight I found it was above a bar and as the staff were busy they gave me a beer and a complimentary bowl of the house speciality. Looked lovely and tasted spicy, certainly chorizo, some bacon, chickpeas and .... inch squares of tripe. Not wishing to appear ungrateful or offend I tried one piece... I can’t go on!
On a lighter note, one of the things I did learn about myself last night is that the beard goes. You will have noticed that in the weight cull my electric razor got dumped. Thought I was cultivating this enigmatic, traveller of the world look. Apparently not so. Last night when the rain started I got up to move the restaurant table I was sitting at to under the shelters balcony. The table was aluminium and could have been lifted one handed by anyone between 14 and 90. I lifted it but then put it straight back down to look where it could go and a young thing of 60 ish dashed across from his table to help me thinking I couldn’t manage. Bugger that. It’s got a date with the razor in a few days.
Good night, going for my cocoa and bed now ...
Friday 20 September 2019
The Grass is greener .....
Day 5 on the Camino and now on foot.
A 23km walk from Sarria to Portomarin.
Where would you like to travel? Canada, Norway, Finland, Dominica, Australia or the States
Virginia, North Carolina or maybe even Hawaii? Well I met folks from all those places today, had breakfast with most of them.
All live in beautiful places yet all shared a desire to walk the Camino. All though had walked pretty far already but they did seem a happy and relatively pain free crowd so perhaps today would not be so bad.
Naively, before leaving UK I had thought that the recommendation to bring a head torch was for emergencies if the day's walk ended up being slower than planned - we've all been there!
My experience with "Super Gran" had though already taught me differently but it still did seem strange setting off at 8 this morning in total darkness along with others
all looking like overloaded miners in a Norman Cornish painting.
And there were quite a few others. As I've said, Saria is the nearest reasonably big town to the 100km minimum limit to get the Camino certificate so softies like me set off from here.
Mind you, judging by the weight of my rucksack - more about that later and yes I do need all those toiletries, I'm worth it - I won't be a softy for long.
By the time it began to get light the marker
posts were showing
114km to Santiago, I really was on my way.
And what a way, as both I and the day woke up sights like this appeared and I realised why people come here.
We are lucky to be able to experience it from our relatively privileged home backgrounds though aren't we,
I don't suppose these two ladies enjoy early mornings as much - but perhaps they do.
When on the bike I had seen how people living on the Camino had understandably taken advantage of literally a "passing trade" but had thought that more in the provision of accommodation. On foot I realised that there were opportunitiesas for really small, personal enterprises.
And I've never been one to pass up the offer of home made cake!
And any way, this proved to be a scientifically acceptable way of solving an issue with my my rucksack. Advice was that it shouldn't weigh more than 10 percent of your body weight. I really had tried go get my pack weight down without success. Makes sense then to increase your body weight - home made cake, sorted!
And half way on today's route another opportunity ...
Actually feeling
like I can do this now, and only 100km to go, cracked it
And still plenty to see ....
Til now I've had nothing but praise for the planners of the route but as with most organisations there's always someone who is having such a hard time in their own lives that they feel duty bound to really dump grief on others. So it must have been with the guy in charge of the Pilgrim's entrance to Portomarin, the end of today's section
- after 23km, you must be joking. Have a nice day ....
A 23km walk from Sarria to Portomarin.
Where would you like to travel? Canada, Norway, Finland, Dominica, Australia or the States
All live in beautiful places yet all shared a desire to walk the Camino. All though had walked pretty far already but they did seem a happy and relatively pain free crowd so perhaps today would not be so bad.
Naively, before leaving UK I had thought that the recommendation to bring a head torch was for emergencies if the day's walk ended up being slower than planned - we've all been there!
My experience with "Super Gran" had though already taught me differently but it still did seem strange setting off at 8 this morning in total darkness along with others
 |
| Artist's impression |
Mind you, judging by the weight of my rucksack - more about that later and yes I do need all those toiletries, I'm worth it - I won't be a softy for long.
By the time it began to get light the marker
posts were showing
And what a way, as both I and the day woke up sights like this appeared and I realised why people come here.
We are lucky to be able to experience it from our relatively privileged home backgrounds though aren't we,
When on the bike I had seen how people living on the Camino had understandably taken advantage of literally a "passing trade" but had thought that more in the provision of accommodation. On foot I realised that there were opportunitiesas for really small, personal enterprises.
And any way, this proved to be a scientifically acceptable way of solving an issue with my my rucksack. Advice was that it shouldn't weigh more than 10 percent of your body weight. I really had tried go get my pack weight down without success. Makes sense then to increase your body weight - home made cake, sorted!
And half way on today's route another opportunity ...
 |
| And Froggy was happy enough ... |
Actually feeling
And still plenty to see ....
Til now I've had nothing but praise for the planners of the route but as with most organisations there's always someone who is having such a hard time in their own lives that they feel duty bound to really dump grief on others. So it must have been with the guy in charge of the Pilgrim's entrance to Portomarin, the end of today's section
- after 23km, you must be joking. Have a nice day ....
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