25th April On to Texas...

Had a great steak and a beer (or 3) at Lucille’s Road House last night – she’s obviously branched out from taking her love to town – and have to say it was a great night. Met some lovely people although not, I’m sad to say, Lucille. Beer was a darker ale brewed locally in Oklahoma Town and I think even the aficionados of The Carpenters Arms Beer against Noise Pollution Society would approve – and The Snowden Memorial Spoon was not needed (In Joke - sorry)

Another lovely day, was 16 deg and dry when I set off and it went up to 20 later.

I have been for some time in an area associated with the Cherokee Nation. However this was not their original tribal land but they were forced here along The Trail Of Tears in 1830 under the Indian Removal Act. Part of the history of the States most want to forget – read about it, it is distressing. If you can get past that though you have to smile at the Cherokee label used to sell “original arts and crafts” all along the route – now call me cynical but I can’t imagine Ma Running Bear in her wigwam baking these!

 

Again I was trying to stick to the original route and I continue to be surprised that this part of Oklahoma is not as I imagined – there are still small fields, hedgerows and creeks.

The route carries on right through it though often straight as far as the eye can see.

 

 

I know I said I didn’t want to show the remnants of peoples misfortunes but there are those latching on to the resurgence of the route and these two “businesses” were directly opposite each other in Canute.

One dead...

One thriving...

I did stop off at the “National Route 66 Museum” in Elk City which was interesting to a degree but very colloquial and a bit naughty using the National tag. Some lovely old vehicles though and a good  replica of the Joad’s truck and a young Henry Fonda  in the Grapes of Wrath film.

 

Also had a Historical Farm and Ranching section with an old boy who could talk for ever and who I could have listened to for a lot longer. Found another tractor I’d like to bring home…

After Elk City there was a wonderful long stretch of road that it was tempting to try and ride but nature was beginning to claim it back…

 

Found a source of a few more renovation projects if anyone interested!

Then on into Texas.

 

 

On crossing the State Line into Texas at Texola the change in the land is sudden and dramatic. Hedgelines disappear and small fields are replaced by vast acreages of grass and scrub. The soil – always red – is now more exposed in places and a red dust coated the road, what trees there were and eventually me.

The road became more exposed and the wind came up again. At one point after mile upon mile of leaning at an uncomfortable angle to counter it there was a sign warning of high winds for the next 9 miles!

All the books and programmes on Route 66 seem to show this water tower, never has lazy workmanship been so exulted – looks like one of my do-it-yourself projects.

 

In the stark landscape this scene stuck out, they say the devil has all the best tunes but you have to admit his competitor's advertising isn’t bad.   This cross at Groom was built by a private individual to counter the huge bill boards advertising pornography – at 190 feet it is reputedly the tallest in the Northern Hemisphere.

And so …….. after asking someone to show me the way, I arrived in Amarillo – ok corny I know but hey you ain’t paying for this.

 

24th April Tulsa to El Reno Oklahoma

What a difference a day makes. Woke up to sunshine and a cloudless sky.

Setting off for El Reno today not too far, some 140 miles but over what is apparently some of the best stretches of original road around.

This I guess is where I lose the remaining few readers who have hung on so far cos it is very anoraky!

It has been a brilliant day, I’ve ridden through countryside far away from any towns or interstates, taken dirt roads that are just passable on my bike in the drier weather and seen bridges that were part of the system in the 20’s but now closed – and I have been ecstatically happy – no, I can’t explain it!

So, apart from a few murials and a round barn I will find out about most of my photos today are of tarmac, red dirt and bridges – lost you yet?

I could have taken dozens of pictures of closed businesses, abandoned homes and rusting street furniture but that seems to be taking advantage of someone’s misfortune. When the Interstate came it cut off whole communities and though a lot struggled on – and still do – most have given up.

Immediately on leaving Tulsa I came to this bridge, closed now but Built in 1921 and taken into the Route 66 system in 1926 it was eventually bypassed in 1952. The decking is unusually redbrick which I have seen in some towns but the first so far out. Yawn yawn, I know!

Sapulpa Bridge

In Davenport I stopped to buy some stamps and whilst in the queue a siren started. I noticed it was 12 o’clock and assumed it was a factory or the like until someone said “hope that darn thing isn’t for real” and then I learned it was the Tornado Warning – but they were just testing it. Was advised to take cover if I ever heard it at other times!!!

That town is going to die if a tornado ever hits it at 12 noon.

 

From there the route just headed  west, and I say route because the actual current road  joined it and then abandoned it, taking new cuttings or avoiding sharp drops into deep valleys.  I’m now of the mind that although the “dream” I suppose is to do Route 66 on a Harley, that is not truly possible. On some of the tracks I’m on I’m on the limits of my bike – really would be easier on one of the Ewan McGregor ilk -

 

 

                                           and I cannot see anyone taking a customised hog down them. Which is a great pity as they are extremely pretty, crossing creeks and rivers where longhorn cattle are beginning to appear drinking in the red mud river banks.

Reminded of the importance of these cattle in these parts when crossed over “The Old Chisum Trail.

Some of the road could have been in parts of England I guess, well until two wild turkey’s ran into the road and one took off in front of me with the grace of a fully loaded Lancaster Bomber and nearly took my screen off. Still, one up on Billy Connolly – he never saw any.

There’s not much else to say today really, I just ambled along, taking the old route most of the way, even the dirt road bits as it was much drier now. I got lost once but as I was running short on fuel too I went into a gas station to ask the way and that was an experience in itself – talk about two nations divided by a common language There was a lot of grinning and staring and I’m sure I heard the strains of Duelling Banjo’s somewhere and I came out no better informed as to where I was.

I’ll just show the pictures and you can perhaps imagine me riding along in the sunshine,

 

Those that know me know how much I look after my bike, it got washed after every trip, however short – well it ain’t looking so good now – but I like to think that like me, it’s tired, dirty and as happy as a pig in the proverbial!

23rd April - From Missouri, through Kansas to Oklahoma in a day!

Try this 

 https://maps.google.ca/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=200059512251364914226.0004daba15b3107f38ef0

to view map!

Well didn’t it rain!  Violent thunder storm in the night and woke up to heavy, persistent downpour. What is it with the weather in this country? It would have been stupid to set off in it, roads were flooded and visibility poor. So nothing to do but have a relaxed breakfast and see if it eases.

I’d hoped to make Tulsa today but that looked unlikely now.

Around 11am there was a break so off to Oklahoma via Kansas we go….

 

Once on the road it was great, really felt that I actually was now following an historic route. It moved away from the Interstate which at this point had been driven straight and level through the terrain and again took the meandering “easy” route round hills and through valleys, only occasionally going through blasted rock.

 

 In many places it was in its original state of slabbed concrete, in others more modern tarmac which had deteriorated to impassability – see later!!!

 

 

The persistent rain discouraged too many stops – it’s always drier on the bike if you keep moving – and so not many photos but the memories just built up and you’ll have to take my word for it turning out to be a really exciting, memorable ride.

 

 

Those trees were out again – now know they are Red Bud Trees ( ok Cercis Canadensis Roger!) – they must have been well down on the naming list because this is a really unimaginative, not to say downright inaccurate, name.

 

This corner of Missouri is, as I’ve already said, really beautiful but that changed as I rode through Kansas – for a whole 12 miles.

 

 

It’s hardly fair as I’m sure it’s the economy which has driven it but those Kansas towns, Galena, Riverton, Baxter Springs  were really run down, desolate places – maybe the rain didn’t help.

Some elements of humour though...

No idea.... but that's a real pick-up!

The temperature dropped during the day, down to 4 deg eventually before the wind chill factor and the cold inevitable crept in. For a bit of respite and determined to enjoy a bit of local hospitality rather than cop out on a Burger King I went into an independent “restaurant” and had probably the worst meal I have ever experienced, served by a lovely woman who unfortunately hasn’t taken advice of the teeth and glass variety. Hey it all adds to the fabric of a good trip!

I did though strike up a conversation with a guy who sang the place's praises as he tucked into something resembling the unfortunate armadillo I’d seen yesterday. As with most of the conversations I’ve had with locals when they realise I’m from England they circled around Margaret Thatcher, terrorists and gun control. On the latter subject this guy had no doubts – the world would be a safer place if everybody carried a gun “hell I do” he said as he moved his jacket and showed me a small howitzer in a shoulder holster. “Do you need a permit to carry a concealed weapon?” I naively asked. “Probably” he replied.

Some of the gardens/yards around the houses were, well interesting. Don’t know if the stuff lying around was being left to return to nature or was part of a planned project. One in particular had all the ingredients of perfect projects for my old friend Dave & I.

A couple of fixer uppers!

The roads going through the towns in Kansas where just as uncared for. If they were now unused, as some were, that’s ok, but some were connecting roads used regularly but honestly they and the areas they ran through had that post 3^rd World War feel.

 

 

Part of the historic road that wasn’t in daily use beat me eventually. Without such a heavy load and in the dry I might have persevered but with a top box, tank bag and 2 stuffed panniers on a surface of slippery clay I daren’t go on and turned around.

 

 

 

 

 I later found the end of that stretch of road and noting it’s history am at least pleased I rode a bit of it. It says this is the only remaining section of the original 9ft pavement of the old Route 66 System. It was completed in 1922 and taken out of commission in 1937.

Crossed over into Oklahoma and immediately the countryside and properties seemed more cared for – strange.

Made good progress then still on the old route and did make Tulsa after all but was so cold.

On watching the weather channel later I saw that there were floods around the State, the area had had the wettest few days ever recorded and that the temperatures were at record lows.

I’m gonna hate the plague of locusts and frogs that tomorrow will no doubt bring.

22nd April Illinois to Missouri

Sun came up strong and bright this morning and with it the realisation that I really had to fall back on why I wanted to complete this trip. That was to travel the route taken since the early 1920s by individuals and families seeking better lives in the West, escaping the Dust Bowl, going to war or just for the sheer pleasure of an open road. A route replaced by modern Interstates, that had its official designation stripped and at one point almost died but is now experiencing a revival and providing so much pleasure to thousands of anoraks like me each year. Already I’d met Brits, Germans, Canadians and of course Americans who were travelling all or part of the route like me.

If I tried to stop at all the places and attractions I’d read about or stumbled across I’d never complete the trip in the time I have. Each 10 miles of the route is worth a day’s visit.

So, loins girded – well you have to on a bike – and it doesn’t mean what I thought it did – I  set off to ride across the final bit of Illinois and cross over into Missouri.

Again a terrific drive along roads with little traffic and peppered with businesses obviously trading on the Route 66 revival but of course thereby helping in that revival. The route was still easy to follow thanks to the signs which I admit I don’t know if they are put up by the State or the Route 66 Association – they even gave you a choice if the alignment had changed over the years.

 

The change in the countryside in this south west corner of Illinois was dramatic the flat plains giving way to rolling hills and wooded valleys. Saw a couple of deer -  alive, which was good (I’d seen scores as road kill- and an armadillo – dead, which is a pity as they are apparently quite rare in this part of the country.

Coming down from one of those hills I saw St Louis, Missouri spread out in front of me and rising from its centre the gigantic Gateway Arch.  I had a decision to make about routes, time and safety and the one I took was to drive round St Louis so didn’t get too close to the Arch though so no photos.

Then, coming down the hill I rode across the mighty Mississippi River – on my own bike – can’t describe that feeling!

Can though describe being par-boiled. As a wise friend always says to me, be careful what you wish for – well I had wished for better weather and lo, I got it. By noon it was 20 deg C and mid-afternoon 24!  As I’d set off with my Nanook of the North undies on in anticipation of those loins being frozen again I began to perspire a wee bit. I pulled into the visitor centre and did some major disrobing. A problem in itself as when I put things on the ground they got covered in melting tar from the asphalt – and it was freezing yesterday for goodness sake. At least though I can at last wear the Official Trip Cap presented by 2 very good friends.

 

The route was more difficult to follow in the north of Missouri – it had more breaks and dead ends and the signage didn’t seem as good – but further south it got better and alternated between tracking parallel to the new Interstate and then wandering of to do its own thing in hills and forests more redolent of New England. 

 AND spring has sprung here the dark greens of the Firs mixed with the light greens of new buds and a beautiful pinky/mauve blossom of a tree which I again have to admit I yet don’t know looks stunning.

Rode through towns where they obviously have a drink problem,

where graffiti is acceptable

 and where someone very large lives....

 

Then put a wiggle on as the sky began to darken and I could see rain in the distance and admit pulled on to the Interstate a bit to get to Lebanon for the night – it’s a town honest. 


And at last I can say it.......I'm only 24 hours from Tulsa!

21st April - Route 66 Illinois

A lovely bright sunny morning – still only just above freezing – but better than the forecast.

Up early and rode along Lakeshore Drive by Lake Michigan to the extension of Jackson Boulevard where Route 66 originally started. It moved a block north when a one way system was introduced and now it ”officially” starts at East Adams opposite the Art Institute of Chicago.

I’m here at last and whilst the sign is, well, disappointing, it can’t detract from my feeling of excitement and anticipation as I get that photograph – note smug grin – can’t believe there was a parking space in exactly the right spot.

 

Set off and got immediately lost as there appears to be no more signs actually in Chicago – perhaps I just didn’t see them. Saw a lot of downtown Chicago though and in the sunshine it was amazing.

Chicago - and travel companion.

However when I got just outside Chicago I was surprised how well the route is marked with Historic Route 66 signs and how complete the route is in Illinois.

Drove through towns I’ve read so much about and really thrilled to actually see them. I guess the first “familiar friend” must be the Gemini Giant in Wilmington. 

 

Stopped here for a meal and when I came out the bike had made a few friends – oh yea coming out now it’s getting warmer!

 

From Wilmington Illinois opened up in its flat, see-forever vastness. Signs said that they were attempting to re-establish large areas as Prairie Grassland and one can only imagine what such an expanse of shimmering grasses must have looked like.  The old route was very nearly all intact although in places it where it had been upgraded to a dual carriageway way back only one side was now maintained as the Interstates had taken away the traffic. You therefore had this bizarre experience of driving for miles with a totally unused concrete road running alongside you.

Only the left hand lane is now used.

 

Then I came to a place that just had to be a photographed. 

 

 

 

 

 If you saw Bill Connely you will know that Godley was the site of the Railway Carriage which was pushed from one side of the County Line to the other as required to avoid police interference in its activities. See Billy’s book, he tells it much better than I can.

Nearly got myself a coyote as I pushed on to get to Litchfield for the night and hopefully a meal at the “famous” Ariston Restaurant. Didn’t get the Coyote and didn’t get the meal either – the Ariston was closed by the time I arrived!

 

 

20th April - On to Chicago

After settling down last night I Iooked out of hotel window and saw it was snowing hard and bike already white over so went down and put tarp over it – and was it cold. Slightly anxious then as although of course I have no real demands on me I had wanted to get down to Chicago today so that I could do all the starty things,seek out spot by Lake Michigan where Route 66 initially began (the original route out of the then much smaller Chicago is now a one way  - the wrong way!)  and then go to the sign at the start as it is now and get the obligatory photo of me under it without all the hassle of the city’s weekday morning rush hour traffic.

As it happened the snow had stopped when I woke up this morning but there was still a lot around and it was so cold it was going nowhere – and, I decided neither was I until much later.

When I did set off it was a cold, windy but dry drag across the whole width of Michigan, through a bit of Indiana and round the tip of Lake Michigan to Chicago, Illinois.

I would be easy to say it was mind numbing but riding along American Interstates with all the “ads” they have is more of an emotional rollercoaster ride as messages seep into your subconscious – which is exactly the point of them I guess. Some stimulate serious debate, or would do if you had anyone to talk to “The Supreme Court calls it Abortion. God calls it murder!” where do you go with that at 70mph in a crosswind? 

Others feelings of inadequacy “Smokey Bear says YOU can prevent Forest Fires” – how Smokey how, tell me. 

“Peace, Love and wine” – what’s that all about, really don’t know, but as a mission statement it gets my vote.

One billboard said “4 burger meals for $4” and then a bit later the same company claimed its meals were “Fiscally Delicious!”  Now, I may be being a tad judgemental – it has been known – but I struggle to accept that the word “fiscal” is going to be up there in the everyday vocabulary of anyone looking at buying burgers meals for a $1 each.

Finally, as I rode into Chicago I was advised “Don’t die with your teeth in a glass” – ok!

Talking of riding – as I should be – at one point I realised that for 300 odd miles I hadn’t seen another motorcyclist, not a one. It was cold, but it was weekend, come on. As I passed a nursery a huge electronic billboard stated “PANSIES”, obviously the owner and I shared the same view on some things.

Called in at a Harley dealers in Michigan City and saw this - perhaps when my balance goes ...

 

The traffic getting into Chicago was horrendous with queues in all lanes – 4 in each direction sometimes - and I was hesitant to filter as I don’t know the law or etiquette on that here, but I did eventually and where the gaps really were too small I had great conversations with drivers who rolled down their windows to ask where I was from.

BUT, I’m here and tomorrow I start Route 66 – a dream coming true….

Just one embarrassing admission – when talking to reception I felt slightly foolish when Irealised I had ridden through a time zone without realising it – well you don’t get many between Doncaster and Scunthorpe – and had gained a whole hour of life.  What to do with it – could get my teeth fixed and avoid that glass.