Saturday 6th June - Oslo

Not a proper blog today as I did what I promised myself and had a day off.  Went into Oslo and just wandered and as there was some kind of carnival on it was a great atmosphere.  I don't think though that all the costumes were authentic. You'll never convince me that this chap's National Dress includes a llama on the head.

Had a few things go wrong, my crash helmet, my shavers bust and a headlight has gone. Now my blinking camera focus seems to be playing up...  and they were such lovely cowboy hats!!!!!

So, just a few musings on things I’ve overlooked on other days.

First of all I learned that however tempting it is on a warm sunny evening not to pop out and cover the bike up, it ain’t worth it. Woke up to this this morning – it was pelting it down but it did clear up and the afternoon in Oslo was lovely.     

I don’t know enough about it to go on too much – I know that doesn’t usually stop me – but Sweden, Denmark and Norway seem to be doing pretty well even though they are not members of the European Union. The roads are great, the trains amazing – I went into Oslo on one – and everything looks so, well prosperous.

You can’t generalise I know, but I have read that the Scandinavians can appear a bit blunt, a bit brusque. I have found that. When I’ve spoken to anyone they have never been anything but incredible friendly and helpful. However they somehow don’t seem to acknowledge you or your presence. If you wait at a door to let them through there’s no smile or thanks, they don’t seem to want to make eye contact. If you leave a bag on a chair in a café and they need it they’ll kind of stand there until you move it and not acknowledge your apologies. Maybe it’s just me – I can’t be a pleasant sight – or smell – after a week on the road!

And the macho bit – why is it that they don’t go strutting around the world righting their perceived wrongs with interference and threats – could it be because their politicians look like this    and their soldiers that?

                              

They are very matter of fact, and that must cost them sometimes. For example honest as this sign may be I can’t see it drumming up much business for the gym!!!

They do have a sense of humour though – when I was trying to get the train into Oslo I asked a guard if the train that just pulled in went there. I guess all trains from that particular station must have called at Oslo because he smiled to himself and said yes of course.  However when he came to collect tickets he looked at mine closely and then said enjoy your trip to Copenhagen!  I was tempted to mutter the name of a place I’d stopped for petrol recently!

Made a bit of a fool of myself in a café. A family went out and I noticed a glove on the table near where they had been sitting. Being gallant for once in my life I picked it up and chased after them. No, it wasn’t theirs. When I went back into the café I was confronted by a rather stern but immaculately dressed older lady who was confused as to why I’d taken her glove. Apparently it’s the thing here to leave an item of clothing – well a decent item of clothing - on a table if you’ve claimed it but have gone to the counter, toilet etc. She unusually hadn’t got very good english and my Norwegian is yet to blossom but we did sort it out and she laughed when  explaining that you only left only glove as a pair would probably be stolen – the twinkle in her eye obviously saying that today was the first time anyone had stolen a single glove.

Anyway, it’s a lovely evening here and all packed up for heading north again tomorrow – weather is set fair – which is good as tomorrow night is my first in a campng cabin – wonder if I'll meet any trolls - mmmmmm!        

Thursday 4th & Friday 5th June

Another couple of terrific days – and it has to be a couple as the “Free Wifi” at last night’s small hotel was more an aspiration than a commitment.

Yesterday the weather still was a pain – sunny enough but the wind took the edge off riding

It may sound as though I disappointed - I’m not, but the countryside seen up until yesterday afternoon had been very “samey” and if I’m honest not what I’d expected. 

However after 5 countries of flat, lush countryside and the 6^th, Sweden, appearing to be the same, things slowly changed north of Gothenburg – the countryside began to take on some of the characteristics I somehow thought Sweden should have. There became more wooded areas and the trees included more birch – which I know – and more fir trees – which I admit I don’t know much about. 

The terrain became very rocky and the vast fields of cereals were replaced by small pastures and hayfields - still lush but fitted in between crags and forests.

The two things which really hit you as you ride along are the Churches – magnificent white buildings - and the bridges – all so elaborate.

I rode past this “castle” which I now know is Bohus Fortress from the 14^th century   

 – and this which I think is Late Disney Period.

Why was this random Struts – that’s Swedish for ostrich, there’s your bit of education for the day – on an embankment miles from anywhere – no idea!!!    

I read that people in the area in the south of Sweden where I was early yesterday morning apparently “speak a guttural dialect which betrays their Danish origin and have difficulty pronouncing the letter r”.  Rather unfortunate then that the first place I stopped for petrol was a town called Bastad – I kid you not!

Just dawned on me that since I entered Belgium 1000 miles ago there have been cycle paths on nearly all the roads but motorways. They are really well maintained and I can see the attraction of using them – on a bike that is – some crazy souls “ski” along them on long in-line wheeled skis – now that looks really hard.

Stopped in Falkenburg (falcolns were apparently once used for hunting there) for a cup of coffee and as it happens a Danish. Falkenburg was apparently loved by Wealthy English gentlemen because of the great fly fishing in the 19^th century.

I wandered round the old town which was very small but had some original buildings from 1700 which had escaped the dozen or so fires that had devastated the town over the centuries.

In the church yard was this charming statue, I think entitled "Communion"

The views yesterday had been great then I rounded the corner into Uddevalla where I was going to spend the night they got better – the view over lake and another wonderful bridge.

Uddevalla

Woke up to a lovely calm, sunny weather this morning - am off to Norway!

Today has been a slow day in terms of mileage north as I had a couple of specific Methodist Churches I wanted to see to get some material for the Epworth Old Rectory Newsletter I help run.

Methodism in Scandinavia didn’t spread, as you’d possibly expect, from England but apparently was started by Scandinavian seamen who travelled across the Atlantic and spread or discovered their faith in America.

One of those seamen was Ole Peter Petersen from Fredrikstad in southern Norway. Petersen was later ordained a minister of the Methodist Episcopal Church in America but in 1853 he returned to Fredikstad where pulled together a Methodist congregation and then in 1857 built a Methodist Church in nearby Sarpsborg – the first in Norway. Unfortunately the original building has burnt down but I wanted to see the site. 

Pator Ole with bust of Ole Petersen

Site of First Methodist Church in Norway

The help I got from Margarethe at the Sarpsborg Tourist Office was terrific – She phoned the Pastor of the Sarpsborg Church who wasn’t in town but said I could have the key to have a look round!  She then called the pastor at Fredikstad and arranged for him to meet me. He did - now if you think you have an image of a Methodist Minister – think again!

Inside Sarpsborg Church

Fredrikstad Church

Late evening I rode on through countryside like this;

  to Oslo where I’m having tomorrow off – I know what a wimp.

Wednesday 3rd June - Scandinavia at last ...

Good news was it was a sunny morning… bad news that the wind hadn’t slackened one bit so I was worried about the ferry crossing from Puttgarden in Germany to Rodby in Denmark – as it was it was needless as the boat just took it all in its stride although I was relieved when I got back down to the car deck at the end of the crossing ad found the bike still standing upright!

Met some fellow bikers as you do in the queue for the ferry. A little Spanish guy and his wife on a BMW loaded so high with bags and topped with an Italian flag that I thought he’d after go in the truck lane. Apparently he owned a motor cycle clothing and accessory shop in Barcelona – according to the wad of business cards he shoved into my hands much to the embarrassment of his wife. Her embarrassment continued on the ferry as I saw him handing them out to all and sundry – bikers or not.

There were a couple of Germans – big bears of men who had hearts of pure gold as I later learned. 

Then there was Rick, an American from Vermont who looked a lean, fit 60/62 year old and who stuck out amongst us for two main reasons – we were all doing impersonations of black leather and textile bound Michelin men and he was in lycra leggings and a thin day-glow yellow top, we had various macho boys’ toys and he had a tired looking pedal cycle with tiny panniers front and back – oh and a sign on the rear saying – “Rick”.  He was cycling to Copenhagen which in itself deserved a lot of respect as it was some 98  miles up the road but then he added he had cycled from Paris – and after a few days in Copenhagen he was cycling down to Frankfurt to meet Sally his partner and they were then off to Basle together – on their bikes.  Talking about our travels I asked if he’d been to England and he had, some 50 years ago – when he was 23 and in the army! The guy was 73 – that Vermont air must be good.

The motorway  towards Copenhagen was wonderful, just one amazing bridge linking islands after another.

It was though marred by a minor breakdown. I carry tons of spares and am prepared for most eventualities – except my cash helmet falling to pieces – didn’t see that coming. In fact didn’t see much for a few seconds as the “flip up lid” flipped down!  Fortunately there was an exit almost immediately and so I was able to pull off.  Close examination of offending lid revealed a screw had come loose on the inner thingymajig and,although took a whil, a bit of microsurgery with a swiss army knife and a screwdriver sorted it – ish!  The Germans I mentioned must have seen me pull off and stop because after a while they doubled back to see if I was ok -  good this biker lark innit!

I had to Skirt Copenhagen to get to Sweden but Froggie was insistent that I showed him Hans Christian Andersons Little Mermaid so a slight detour was made. 

 Actually a longer detour than expected as Copenhagen it seems is being moved by great big yellow dumper trucks to somewhere else and many of the roads Satnav Jane thought she knew were no longer there  - a lot of “Turn around when possible”.

Froggie wasn't the only critter out that day - Mr and Mrs Goose were taking the family for a walk in the park...

Then on to the Oresund Bridge and Sweden. I can now drop into conversations “When I popped into Denmark for the day ….”  If you are in to Scandinavian Crime series you’ll know about “The Bridge”  - an amazing bridge and indeed tunnel complex which links Denmark to Sweden – great view, would have been good to see it from a vertical position! Didn't get a photo of this bridge as nowhere safe to stop so watch this space on the return leg!

Rode past probably the most laid back bus stop I’ve ever seen. 

Now, certain members of my family have a thing about wild boars – never seen one but are convinced they are not good things to be chased through woods by. 

This is probably not a good place to come then Miss H!

  

Settled in now near Angelholme, just north of Helsinborg, Sweden.

Tired, as you can probably tell – the wind really has taken its toll so will call it a day.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings…

Tuesday 2nd June - A long haul across Germany.

Not really a spectator sport today – you really had to do it.  A long drive from Delden Mk2 into Germany then up passed Bremen and Hamburg to Puttgarden where – weather permitting – I’ll catch the ferry over to Denmark in the morning.

I say weather permitting because the wind is really bad and has been all day. The rain has held off though the sky has been threatening most of the time – really stormy looking.

I switched between taking the shorter, more direct route – but Jane got a bit silly sometimes and I could write a small book entitled German Housing Estates I have known – and the fastest route along the Autobhans – see I’ve got the language now.

The two couldn’t have been more contrasting. The country route was like riding through a vast English country estate – long, straight tree lined avenues, more rhododendrons, reed lined lakes, pristine farms. The Autobhan was whacky races meets the Canadian Praries – a constant wind blowing clouds across an endless sky and views that went on forever but I daren’t look at for fear of missing  some  Audi, Merc or BMW coming up behind me at warp factor 3.

Saw some storks and some deer which was good.

Met some great people. A lovely old man in a shop who just wanted to talk about his planned trip to Cornwall and Wales and the fact that his sister had sent him out with a shopping list – which he showed me - which included asparagus and he couldn’t find any so was reluctant to go home because she'd shout at him. Called in for a coffee at a village shop with a “Snack Bar” sign run by a dear old lady who said she couldn’t speak much English and then of course totally embarrassed me by speaking it better than what I does. She didn’t say where she learned but one thing is certain with her coffee at €1.10, ie 85 pence ish a cup it probably wasn’t by paying for lessons.

All riding, no photos so pretty boring blog today but…. I’m on the edge of Scandinavia so perhaps the trip starts properly tomorrow……………

Monday 1st June - On Way

Well I’m on my way, in fact nearly 600 miles of it done!

A bit of a damp start that got wetter before it got better, but get better it did get and it was a lovely evening by the time I got the Shuttle from Folkestone to Calais. What an amazing system that is went straight through without a hitch.

For my younger readers I can confirm that Froggie is  travelling with me and was really excited to be on a train UNDER the sea! 

Was tired though so as soon as a decent motel came into sight - just outside Dunkerque - I took it and day 1 was complete.

I woke up to sunshine this morning and that is how it stayed all day. Knew it was going to be a bit of a drag across the industrial corner of Belgium through Gent and Antwerp to Holland and on to Germany but intended to have a break by calling at Arnhem to visit the “Bridge Too Far” the site of the battle to secure the Rhine crossing that took place in September 1944 and the small museum there.

Though my fears of heavy traffic were founded in places around the major towns and there isn’t much to say of interest about most of the drive, some of the smaller dual carriageways were absolutely beautiful with miles and miles of Rhododendrons along the sides and wild roses along the central reservation.

The Bridge after the Battle

The Bridge today

The museum at Arnhem is only a small place, just one room,  run by volunteers and the guide I spoke to was a local who’s family had been caught up in the battle.  On each of the four walls were more  personal accounts - with photos - from people who were at the battle for the Bridge, The British soldiers, Polish and American soldiers, German soldiers and, perhaps most poignant of all, the Dutch civilians whose homes were totally destroyed and who  then had to flee their city for 8 months until liberation of the Netherlands in 1945.  

Then, whilst reflecting on all that tragedy I stepped out of the museum to see this boat cruising down the Rhine. 

 It looked brand new and made me think that perhaps a Rhine cruise would be worth the incredible amount they cost but then the guide from the museum told me that it was in fact a boat run by a charity  that took sick and disabled children and adults on week long cruises. One of the decks had long floor to ceiling windows so that even those laying down could enjoy the views. That thought – and a coffee in the sun watching more boats on the river – cheered me up!   

Looking at the map I decided that Delden was a good place to aim for tonight – making it a 300 mile day - so I put that in sat nav. Now I always think that people who travel by sat nav and don’t carry maps are prats so  I was carrying plenty of maps, maps to cobble dogs with as they say, whoever they that cobble dogs are but, and here’s the rub, all my maps were of Scandinavia, north to south and in detail. None were of Holland so how was I to know there were two Deldens in Holland -  well, did you!?

I did know, cos I’d looked, that the Delden I wanted was on a main route to Bremen and Hamburg were I was headed so I began to get a little concerned when the roads became narrower and traffic quieter. That concern  grew when  came to a standstill behind the traffic – well two bikes and a car – held up by a farmer and his lad leading heifers along the road into a field. Oh, and a strange thing, the farmers – presumably Dutch - were shouting “walk on “ in English – maybe the heifers were English!

When I came to a lovely hamlet called Delden and Jane of sat nav fame told me I’d reached my destination the day could have gone down hill.

I must have been well and truly lost because I’m a man AND I stopped and asked directions!!!

So, after being put right by a man and his dog who spoke excellent English - that’s the man not the dog, although thinking about it the dog didn’t actually speak- and who googled or whatever on his phone I got on the right track to another bigger Delden, 38km away.  Well, sometimes it’s good to make mistakes because that 38km was through absolutely beautiful Dutch countryside that I would have missed otherwise.

And here I am in Delden Mk2, which is 100km west of Osnabruck, with a room for the night and my bike in the hotel garage with 30 odd push bikes – life is still good.

Monday 25th May - Getting a little nervous!

This time next week I'll be on my way.

Bike all ready now, new tyres and stickers from my two lovely grand-daughters so looking good.

Think I've managed to pack everything but am sweating a bit on the weight - will just have to go without breakfast when I set off.

The bikes just clicked over to 60,000 miles and I'm soon to click over to OAP status so am taking heart in a sign I saw on my

last trip..........

Sunday 3rd May - Fine Tuning

Well, I leave in 4 weeks.


Bike's all ready except for getting a new set of tyres fitted .
Now just need to get my clothes sorted out. Having just watched Henry Cole' "World's Greatest Motorcycle rides" from Scandinavia when it rained for most of the time I think I need to switch some of the thermal gear for waterproof ones.  Can see a pair of expensive (very) sealskinz socks going on list!