Wednesday 17th June - Crossing Swedish Lapland

It’s been a great day today but mainly in a “you had to be there” kind of way.  The temperature has been up in the mid-teens, sun out and lovely dry, sticky, windy roads.

Was a really great feel good day – wind in my hair – ok on my forehead - flies in my teeth job.

But, before I get to all that, I’ve got more stuff from my friend Gary – you know I think every home should have a domesticated American, they are really handy. You should really be able to get one on the NHS (that’s our public health service G) – they do wonders for relieving stress. I’ve looked and looked at how to get a map on the blog and he does it before breakfast. It came about because Gary asked if I was coming down the same was as I went up and it was easier to show on a map than verbally.

Here are the maps that Gary so kindly prepared .....

Going up....

still going up...

Coming down.

I’m not, as you can see coming back the same way.. Going north via Norway was wonderful but for every mile north you had to go 50 around Fjords and coastlines. Coming south through Finland and Sweden, as well as seeing the different countries, is more direct and the speed limits are kinder. 

The Swedes are just as careful/anxious/nervous/dithery drivers as the Norwegians though – in England to survive on a bike you have to think “What could that **** possible do?” and usually they do it. Here it’s almost the other way, if you try and give way when you actually have the right of way or if you indicate to let them past because you are slowing to look at something you’ll likely both be there till Christmas.

Anyway, enough.  Today I dropped down from Avidsjaur to Ostersund.where I am now.

Just done 4000 miles, that is 1000 miles since I turned round at Nordkapp. For some reason I can’t explain I’m about 500 over what I calculated - though I do turn round and go back to things a lot!!! – and I have about another 1500 miles to do to get home.

The countryside has been about perfect. Still lots of forests, lakes and rivers but those hills from which to get a view of it all. If I’d stopped to photograph every breath-taking lake or river vista I’d still be out there so just a few.

Love this one though 

Look at it upside down....

When I set off I naively bought a Scandinavian phrase book intending to at least try and say a few pleasantries – more on that later – but that is a total nonstarter.

The book itself is difficult but even iif I could grasp Can you tell me the way to -  “Kan du berätta vägen till …” which seems pretty intuitive, what chance would I have if I wanted to go to this place?

At least today though I did see a place I could say…. That’s on the way in though!   

These are a couple of other “Don’t know” pics. The first in Arvidsjaur where I stayed overnight - a family of Mooses - I've still not seen signs of any real ones, the second in Stromsund....

As regards the second I guess the Jolly Green one needed a day off. Actually, I do know about that one now having read my guide book, it’s the Wildman, the towns emblem, brandishing his club he’s the traditional symbol for Lapland encapsulating strength, riches and determination – so not sweetcorn then.

I saw a lot more reindeer today – I know what I promised but I admit to being thrilled when I do see them.

And this which I was excited about but think it’s a Common Crane, would be wouldn’t it.

What has been noticeable today is that there are now genuinely old buildings. The total devastation that occurred in the Second World War didn’t reach down here.

There were therefore museums in original old buildings – this is one in Avidsjaur ...

and ordinary villages that looked as though they were part of a heritage museum.

This one was stuck out in nowhere and could have been the village time forgot – except for the vehicles of course.

I ‘ve seen a lot of the word Loppis around -  usually on old, tatty looking buildings so thought it might mean for sale or keep off – no it means  Flea Market – this one was Stangt, closed, breeding more fleas no doubt. The buildings are great though don’t you think?

Parking up in Stromsund I saw this sign and if it is correct I may drive home via Hong Kong!!

                                                                   and then when I was sitting in a cafe having lunch I saw this great invention, a Granny Scooter.  Not good shots but look, uphill it's a walking aid, down hill it's a scooter

Oh, and about those pleasantries – the Swedes appear as reluctant to engage as the Norwegians. And again I don’t mean to be offensive, it’s just a different approach. None of the “familiarity” of more southern Europeans. If you walk in to a breakfast room and say “Good morning” generally you are looked at gone out! Again though all very friendly if you do have to communicate.

Now settled in a small hotel in the centre of  Ostersund. It is in a pedestrian precinct so had to park my bike some distance away and carry my stuff here. That was abit of a pain but cheered up by these little dragon litter bins

And on that happy note .........Night night

Tuesday 16th June - Back to Sweden

Landed on my feet again last night. The place I had was called Blueberry Inn and I booked it in advance but when the satnav started taking into an admittedly nice housing scheme, but a housing scheme all the same, I began to panic slightly. Then I saw this and I wondered....

But in fact – while the name was a bit of a liberty – the “room” was a very nice bedsit with kitchen, shower, washing machine etc. I think it was a converted garage but it was run by a young couple obviously trying to supplement their income. It was great and they were so obliging and friendly.

Tell you what though, as well as affecting the relative speed of the earth I think being in the Arctic Circle – I’m now just out of it, it’s about 5 miles up the road – affects gravity. I’m finding it really hard to lift the bike and climb on to it – something is pulling me down, strange.

Didn’t have any plans today other than to make a place called Avidsjaur, the old Swedish Lap capital. So just set off south westerly.

Sometimes no plans are the best plans because ended up being a great day.

You know how I've said everything is pristine in this part of the world, well this even goes down to the bus shelters....

and their choice of garden features ....  

During the morning I rode through Finland and then the afternoon Sweden and there was a marked difference in the enjoyment factor. I haven’t seen enough of Finland to be fair but today whilst the countryside was beautiful in its way – all forests and lakes – you could actually see nothing but the forests, they were too thick to see through – going on for mile after mile on long straight roads.

Another thing I hadn't realised until I researched for this trip is how young independent Finland is. It was during his chaotic past part of Russia and didn't become an independent republic until 1917 ish.

The Finns are a bit touchy about their alliances as I found out when asking a guide at the Siida museum about it.  The museum had four large walls covered with a time map from millions of years BC to the present day and it was detailed. But 1914 to 1918 Zilch. Apparently the populace were split between support for the Germans and Russians - for you scholars who know more about this I apologise for my ignorance  but it is interesting how we - and I mean I - assume the nice guys were on our side.

This plaque on the road just outside Rovaniemi  was interesting too.

  

 It was great riding though the sun was out and absolutely no traffic. Now I know Finland IS in the EEC so my argument doesn’t quite hold but I say again where have we gone wrong. There was no traffic, it was a B road but they were repairing it in several places – again by ripping it up totally  – and 2 of the vehicles I did see where tractors mowing the verge!

Crossing over the river Torne – honest, though bigger than the one near us - into Sweden and the change was almost instant.

 Still forests and lakes but the forests weren’t quite as thick .... 

                                                             .... they were mostly birch and there were hills so you got those panoramic” views.

I know I said yesterday I wouldn’t bore you with facts from the museum but I am really surprised that as you get further north and the terrain and weather get worse the fir trees die out and the birch take over – didn’t realise that, oh I know you knew Roger!

Looking for somewhere to eat I went into a town and came across this church in Overtornea.

 It was built in 1617 can you believe and is apparently quite important being one of the best-preserved 17th century wooden churches in Sweden.  Now, bear in mind I’m well off the tourist track now so when I went in and a young lady sprang up and said Hello I was a bit surprised. Her job was the church guide! Did she have many visitors? No, but would I like to hear the audio. Yes please. Then, through speakers hung from the ceiling came a detailed, but badly pronounced history of the church in English – I’m not criticising, my Swedish hasn’t improved over the last 2 weeks. Bizarre.

However, I then asked her what the very elaborate building next door to the church was and she looked out of the window as though she had not noticed it before. No, she didn’t know what it was.  Reading later – and obviously looking - it was the bell tower. I think she relies too much on the technology!

I did find lunch, a buffet in a Thai restaurant for a fiver – great bargins I’m finding! The guy who owned the restaurant with his wife was keen that I look around the area. He offered me directions to an Ostrich farm 250 km odd away, a moose farm 30km away and a tractor museum 6km down the road. Now, where do you think I went? Correct.

But even if you don’t like tractors quite as much as I do – and I know few do – you would have loved the experience of this place. It looked less a tractor museum and more a tractor graveyard. 

 

Except the deceased weren’t!  There must have been a couple of hundred and as I looked around the owner/collector/nutter came up to me and assured me that most actually ran. Don’t believe it – no, I didn’t either so he proceeded to show me.

I saw that all had batteries and new wiring etc which in itself must have cost a small fortune. Tyres though weren’t a priority ...

 – well they didn’t go far. 

BUT start they did. Amazing.

This thing was a single cylinder jobby that he didn’t even get on, just let run backwards and forwards by hitting the gear lever. 

Sorry – I know I’ve lost all my female followers and half the male but the guy’s enthusiasm was amazing. And there were motor bikes

 – gone to heaven – what!

Getting on the road again Sweden got even more beautiful. I was surprise at the number of really wide – 150 yard plus – rivers I crossed.

 Saw more reindeer but as promised no more pictures.

Then on to Arvidsjaur in Swedish Lapland. 

 And to end where I came in – lucky again – this place is wonderful – brand new and so very cheap. 

Has a bar and does breakfast – sorted.

Night night.....

Tuesday 16th June - American Supplement!

I have this very kind, clever and reasonably domesticated American friend Gary who is good at all the computer graphic stuff and obviously has not enough to do building a house.

Whilst I have been struggling with communication he has been beavering away working magic................

 First of all he asked me when I was going to be at Nordkapp and told me to stand in a certain place - I did annd I did.

That may not look much but it is a scan from The Nordkapp camera and that's me right in the middle!

Then he produced this to perhaps explain the reason I was having difficulties coomunicating...

And then when I was talking about walking to the Knivskjellodden

peninsular he sent this.

I'm really sorry |I hadn't seen them when I did the bloggs, 

Thanks my old  mate!