The Iron Curtain Trail

 Sodankyla to Salla

More history today ... and to probably misquote Hegel "The only thing we learn from history is that we learn nothing from history."

Visited numerous sites on the way and a Museum in Salla commemorating or detailing atrocities and bravery as the local population suffered, fought back and eventually capitulated to aggression from the USSR in the Winter War and then again from retrearing German forces in the Lapland Wars

And although obviously at no risk it is a discomforting feeling to get within yards of the current Russian border ... you can easily understand why Finland recently joined NATO.

Not really many lighter photos to share today.

One perhaps interesting, every now and then you see black plastic bags or sheeting hanging from trees and being from "dog loving"  England it is easy to assume you know what these are... but no...apparently Sami herders hang these up when they are near a road to warn drivers!

Different reindeer today... the statue is in Salla Centre as are the huge rocks forming part of the origional Sapaline, anti-tank defences started by the Finns in 1940 and running all the way from the Baltic to Finnish Lapland. Still considered Finland biggest construction site!

Oh and the wonderful Finnish bust shelters ... and a couple of ostriches???  No idea...

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Inari to Sodankyla ... leaving Finnish Lapland.

A "nature" day today... a break from history!

Though I knew that it was believed Finland was named by other countries because of the "fens" or swamps (Finns don't call their country that ... for a start there is no f in their alphabet) but I didn't realise how important the swampy bits ... mires as they call them ... are. Took a great walk on duckboards over one ... a peaceful experience

Also became aware of how the concious the Finns are in regard to use of pesticides and insecticides in farming. Got a 2 inch coat of bugs on my screen... almost a thing of the past in the UK... and the wild flower meadows... beautiful.

Then up onto the fells...they do call them that so that's my theories shot down...treeless slopes ideal for skiing in winter...

And down to the lakes...

Oh and more reindeer.

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Kirkenes to Inari .. back to Finland.

A short run with three planned stops and scores of unplanned photo stops for reindeer ... yes I still get excited ... and amazing views.

 

First stop was the site of an old Sami 

settlement at Neiden the main feature of

which is an Orthadox Chapel built in 1656...

Close to that was the Skoltefossen Waterfall 

And then the Lapland War Memorial...

Finished the day off in the SIIDA Museum.... but that's a whole post by itself!

A good day .....

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Grenze Jacobselv to Kirkenes Norway

What a day... to the edge of Europe and literally a stone's throw from Russia across the narrow river ... no fences, just yellow marker posts in Norway and red and green ones in Russia. It's a mad world isn't it, plaques and statues all around  here commemorating Russia freeing Norway from  German occupation .... and today!

And  one of the longest road routes in Europe ... the E105 ... starts here and goes all the way to Crimea!

Kirkenes  was apparently one of the most heavily bombed towns on mainland Europe as the Germans used it as a base to attack Arctic Convoys and invade Russia. The massive airaid shelter - Andersgrotta -  which could house 2500 people is still here.

Next to it is a monument to the liberating Russian  soldiers. And in town a tribute to the mother's who held their families together during that terrible time. 

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Arrived in Kirkenes after 2298 miles and you know you are 'up north'  sun still there... well it is 24 hours a day...but temperature has dropped 10 degrees.

Saw first reindeer today ...excited ... then along came more and more. Can see why they have a 50mph speed limit on some roads... the sweeping curves encourage you to do more... but rudolph's cousins ran out on me twice!

A bit of a shock though when the road became unpaved... for 48 miles...