The Iron Curtain Trail

 Hossa to Lantiira via Raate Road.

One of my planned highlights today. A visit to The Winter War Museum and Raate Road.

I admit I don't know what to write though... the facts of the Raate Road battle are harrowing enough but when considered alongside what's going on in Ukraine today highlight the senselesness if war.

The main "Open Embrace" monument has 105 brass bells to represent the number of days the Winter War lasted and it is surrounded by 17,000 large rocks to try and give a visual impact of the lives lost in the battle along this road. Some 900 Finnish soldiers died and while Russia never gives realistic casualty figures, even today, it is estimated that 24,000 Red Army soldiers perished. This estimate is based on the fact that all men of the Red Army 44th Division were either killed or captured and a Division was apparently 17,500.

The startling fact?  The men of the 44th Division were Ukranians.

I'll just show pictures of some of the memorials and of the old border crossing where Raate Road starts....

Iron Curtain Trail

 Salla to Hossa

A harder one today.... rained on and off which made looking  out for memorials difficult.

Started day as usual with reindeer...seeing wandering about and then in my breakfast quiche.... what?

Crossed the Arctic Circle for the final time and rode through the ski resort of Ruka.

Learned from a local that the reason there were so many reindeer on the road now is because the mosquitoes are in full swing in the forest and the reindeer have learned they can get relief in the middle of the carriageway..... makes sense I guess.

I also had another question answered. I couldn't understand why there were so many memorials to people - women, children and babies included - killed by "partisans". I associated partisans with civilians who fought against an occupying enemy.... why would they be killing locals.  It transpires that in this Finnish context the patisans were a paramilitary forces of Soviet mercenaries who attacked villages and remote houses in the Finnish eastern borderlands during the Continuation War 1941–1944. They burned the houses, stole food and cattle, and killed civilians indiscriminately. Saw some horrendous accounts.

Enough.... also saw some work by local artists..... !!!

Oh and a park where you could pay to see reindeer... mmmm!

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Sodankyla to Salla

More history today ... and to probably misquote Hegel "The only thing we learn from history is that we learn nothing from history."

Visited numerous sites on the way and a Museum in Salla commemorating or detailing atrocities and bravery as the local population suffered, fought back and eventually capitulated to aggression from the USSR in the Winter War and then again from retrearing German forces in the Lapland Wars

And although obviously at no risk it is a discomforting feeling to get within yards of the current Russian border ... you can easily understand why Finland recently joined NATO.

Not really many lighter photos to share today.

One perhaps interesting, every now and then you see black plastic bags or sheeting hanging from trees and being from "dog loving"  England it is easy to assume you know what these are... but no...apparently Sami herders hang these up when they are near a road to warn drivers!

Different reindeer today... the statue is in Salla Centre as are the huge rocks forming part of the origional Sapaline, anti-tank defences started by the Finns in 1940 and running all the way from the Baltic to Finnish Lapland. Still considered Finland biggest construction site!

Oh and the wonderful Finnish bust shelters ... and a couple of ostriches???  No idea...

The Iron Curtain Trail

 Inari to Sodankyla ... leaving Finnish Lapland.

A "nature" day today... a break from history!

Though I knew that it was believed Finland was named by other countries because of the "fens" or swamps (Finns don't call their country that ... for a start there is no f in their alphabet) but I didn't realise how important the swampy bits ... mires as they call them ... are. Took a great walk on duckboards over one ... a peaceful experience

Also became aware of how the concious the Finns are in regard to use of pesticides and insecticides in farming. Got a 2 inch coat of bugs on my screen... almost a thing of the past in the UK... and the wild flower meadows... beautiful.

Then up onto the fells...they do call them that so that's my theories shot down...treeless slopes ideal for skiing in winter...

And down to the lakes...

Oh and more reindeer.