Saturday, 20 June 2015

Friday 19th and Saturday 20th June - From Sweden to Denmark


No Wi-fi again last night folks so a double dollop now.


Now, it is admission time. In my quest for popularism I have sacrificed factual accuracy. It has quite rightly been pointed out to me that through ignorance - which I admit - and a little bit of mischievousness - perhaps - I am causing some confusion re the EEC, EU and Eurozone. I am reliably informed by my European Correspondent who knows these things that “The EU includes all Scandinavia except Norway and Iceland. Denmark and Sweden, like the UK are not in the Eurozone. The EEC is an older larger concept which is not very relevant today”.

Well, there you are. So no more Europe bashing

Had a great night in a small hotel in Oresund with a kind receptionist who let me put bike practically in the foyer.

Froggy was really taken with the size of their leggo sets here – we saw it on the way out of the hotel complex - and wants one.   




I intended to take a leisurely ride down to Jonkoping along the eastern bank of Lake Vattern.  I’d heard it was a really attractive route and it didn’t disappoint. It was more on the tourist route than I’d really been on before and as it was a National Holiday Weekend it was busy.

In fact there’s been floods of cars driving north over the last few days - like a Volvo tsunami.

I’ve had a rethink about those guys that name caravans and motor homes. I can now see why they are needed. I saw a motor home today called Home Car which although I guess is technically correct is pretty boring isn’t it. I see they are manufactured in Lommel in Belgium – now, there’s a comment there I’m not going to make!

The ride seemed to pack a lot of different elements of “days out” into one. There was a really old fashioned “sea side” town,  Granna – ok on a lake - with about 10 rock shops in a short street – somehow I’d always thought of that as a British thing – wrong again. Looking on t’nternet I find “Gränna is known for its red and white polkagris (literally "polka pig" in Swedish) stick candy, also known as peppermint rock. This was first made by the widow Amalia Eriksson in 1859”.




















I caught sight of this as I rode along ..... 





 and admit my first thoughts were ”How fortunate to be able to build something like that and with that view”.  As I drove passed though I saw the sign Café so went back to have a look. What an amazing place. It is a “Nature House” -  a concept attributed to the architect Bengt Warne -  and is the brainchild of Bodil Antonsson who showed me round. 



 Her father was a gardener and so Bodil had grown up with the rhythms of seasons and plants and told me she had wanted to create somewhere where you could be at peace and at one with nature.   As I sat and had a coffee and one of their beautiful cakes the world certainly seemed to be a pretty ok place.



It was 6 years in coming to fruition but now is a café – though that word really does not do justice to the cakes I saw - a B&B, a meeting place and a venue for courses and small events.  

The “loft” which is where the concerts would take place - has to be seen to be believed – can you imagine listening to live music here on a sunny evening – or better still with a sunset!



I didn’t get a full technically spec but it must be nearly self-sufficient and self renewing And there were solar panels outside.  You can see more pictures at www.Uppgrennanaturhus.se  though most of the text is in Swedish – or better still go stay there.
















Vadstena was another beautiful town on the lakeside. It’s got a 16th Castle which was quite magnificent.    








And see, even in a place as steeped with class and history as this they know quality when they see it and put it centre stage.  A Volvo Tractor – what else would it be in Sweden!





At one point the country side was again like the prairies with little red and white homesteads dotted about. On this predominately green canvas the purples of the lilac and lupins had been joined by bright yellow laburnum and pale blue cornflowers. I have absolutely no artistic ability but I can almost imagine what an abstract painting of the area would look like.



These are the ruins of  Brahehus Castle on a hill overlooking the lake but I  couldn’t seem to find a way up to it. Built in the 1600s by a politician as a country retreat – no change there then – it was ravaged by fire in 1708 and was never repaired.




Though you wouldn’t know it from the weather it is of course mid-summers day soon and as I've said one of the biggest holidays. Here it seemed a bit more traditional than the dashing up north to the cabin.  There have been hundreds of people along the way picking wild flowers from cornfields, meadows and even the verges. And in the towns they are adorning everything – and I mean everything -  with birch branches. 


Stopped over night near Jonkoping and then off this morning to Denmark. Another long haul really and more has to be done on faster roads.

I pulled off to have a bite to eat – another picnic -  at this little village off the main road












 and came across a ruined church with this stone outside the grounds.




It is a Brudsten or Bridal stone and was where the bride or sometimes the bride and groom “to be admired by the congregation”.

Then back across the Oresund Bridge and into Denmark.  Now, you will notice a marked lack of photos from this bit of the trip. Well, a) I was on a motorway so stopping was a bit tricky, although I risked it for this snap of the bridge




but mainly b) it siled it down – couldn’t see a flaming thing.

To make sure I clocked up the miles I had e-mailed a camp site near Odense in Denmark to ask if there would be any cabins if I made it. Got a lovely reply back from Angelika who said yes they had a cabin and she would be around until 10 so I’d be welcome

I did make it by about 8.30 and was greeted by Angelika. . Angelika is not like other people. Angelika is a one off – or at least I hope she is.

The reception is a shop for garden gnomes – I don’t know why. She draws pictures all the time she is talking to you. She goes off on tangents in broken English. She explains the “camp rules” in even more broken English. My head is spinning.

Let's see what the night brings - my cabin door is going to be locked!!!!

Night night.......





Thursday, 18 June 2015

Thursday 18th June - South through Central Sweden

Had a long ride down Central Sweden today and one of the best days out on a bike ever.
Sun and a bit of rain but great roads again through wonderful scenery – I do recommend this part of the world. And it's so clean - can honestly say in all the miles I've done today I have not seen one lot of rubbish dumped at the side of the road.

At the beginning it was through forests that went on as far as you could see - and you could see a long way from the hills in that clear air - but further south these gave way to rolling fields and meadows and small villages – still with plenty of lakes. 






The country side then had a purple theme.There were purple Lilac trees out everywhere and the roadside verges were teeming with pink and purple lupins! I saw people picking lilac and that took me back. When I was 11 ish my dad and I went around to various people who had lilac trees and cut it to sell at market. It;s hard to remember the pre Inter-flora days isn't it. 

But, again you had to be there…

And unless you share my anoraky interests the rest of the day would be pretty grim for you too. 

But I had a great day - am tired though so forgive ( or be grateful for) me being brief.

I called in at a place called Leksand to see one of the country’s best “Homestead Museums” – I know more old buildings, but these date back to 1600 – not in their original location of course, they have been brought from all over southern Sweden. 














Look at this “hand rail” - that’s what you need on your cabin Gary.
 As you can perhaps see by the photos it was raining when I walked around the village but there was a little cafe run  by volunteers. It was just closing but they managed to make me a coffee and in return I helped them finish their last two pieces of Rhubarb strudel and vanilla sauce - I only wanted one honest - they insisted it was a shame to waste it.










Yes, there was a church involved – this one is one of the largest Rural churches in Sweden – it can seat 2300 - and is as it was in 1715 although parts of it date back to 1200.




There was a free standing bell tower next to it – nothing to do with the church and I can’t find out much about it but it was a great structure.








Now, here’s a thing. You know I’ve been banging on about being in the EEC and how Sweden – and Norway and Denmark – seem to survive out of it. Well, I went through Grangesberg a town with a mining history and saw this statue – 

very nice it was too – it is carved out of wood.  And erected with funds from the EEC. I just don’t get it!









On the hillside nearby was the remains of a water wheel that had been used to power the mining at the beginning of the last century – if it’s not your thing I guess pretty boring but impressive.








I was tempted by this 


but the day was getting on- and I wasn’t  - so sorry to disappoint you, here’s another picture of a tractor as compensation…




You know, it could be me couldn't it!!!



For my next trip I’m thinking of having a tow bar fitted cos I think the bike would manage this.  









And today's “I haven’t a clue” picture –


                                                                                                            no I have no idea!

Bed calls...... night night

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Wednesday 17th June - Crossing Swedish Lapland

It’s been a great day today but mainly in a “you had to be there” kind of way.  The temperature has been up in the mid-teens, sun out and lovely dry, sticky, windy roads.
Was a really great feel good day – wind in my hair – ok on my forehead - flies in my teeth job.

But, before I get to all that, I’ve got more stuff from my friend Gary – you know I think every home should have a domesticated American, they are really handy. You should really be able to get one on the NHS (that’s our public health service G) – they do wonders for relieving stress. I’ve looked and looked at how to get a map on the blog and he does it before breakfast. It came about because Gary asked if I was coming down the same was as I went up and it was easier to show on a map than verbally.

Here are the maps that Gary so kindly prepared .....


Going up....





still going up...



Coming down.




I’m not, as you can see coming back the same way.. Going north via Norway was wonderful but for every mile north you had to go 50 around Fjords and coastlines. Coming south through Finland and Sweden, as well as seeing the different countries, is more direct and the speed limits are kinder. 


The Swedes are just as careful/anxious/nervous/dithery drivers as the Norwegians though – in England to survive on a bike you have to think “What could that **** possible do?” and usually they do it. Here it’s almost the other way, if you try and give way when you actually have the right of way or if you indicate to let them past because you are slowing to look at something you’ll likely both be there till Christmas.

Anyway, enough.  Today I dropped down from Avidsjaur to Ostersund.where I am now.

Just done 4000 miles, that is 1000 miles since I turned round at Nordkapp. For some reason I can’t explain I’m about 500 over what I calculated - though I do turn round and go back to things a lot!!! – and I have about another 1500 miles to do to get home.

The countryside has been about perfect. Still lots of forests, lakes and rivers but those hills from which to get a view of it all. If I’d stopped to photograph every breath-taking lake or river vista I’d still be out there so just a few.





Love this one though 




Look at it upside down....


When I set off I naively bought a Scandinavian phrase book intending to at least try and say a few pleasantries – more on that later – but that is a total nonstarter.
The book itself is difficult but even iif I could grasp Can you tell me the way to - Kan du berätta vägen till …” which seems pretty intuitive, what chance would I have if I wanted to go to this place?



At least today though I did see a place I could say…. That’s on the way in though!   





These are a couple of other “Don’t know” pics. The first in Arvidsjaur where I stayed overnight - a family of Mooses - I've still not seen signs of any real ones, the second in Stromsund....













As regards the second I guess the Jolly Green one needed a day off. Actually, I do know about that one now having read my guide book, it’s the Wildman, the towns emblem, brandishing his club he’s the traditional symbol for Lapland encapsulating strength, riches and determination – so not sweetcorn then.

I saw a lot more reindeer today – I know what I promised but I admit to being thrilled when I do see them.









And this which I was excited about but think it’s a Common Crane, would be wouldn’t it.





What has been noticeable today is that there are now genuinely old buildings. The total devastation that occurred in the Second World War didn’t reach down here.
There were therefore museums in original old buildings – this is one in Avidsjaur ...













and ordinary villages that looked as though they were part of a heritage museum.

This one was stuck out in nowhere and could have been the village time forgot – except for the vehicles of course.







I ‘ve seen a lot of the word Loppis around -  usually on old, tatty looking buildings so thought it might mean for sale or keep off – no it means  Flea Market – this one was Stangt, closed, breeding more fleas no doubt. The buildings are great though don’t you think?


Parking up in Stromsund I saw this sign and if it is correct I may drive home via Hong Kong!!










                                                                   and then when I was sitting in a cafe having lunch I saw this great invention, a Granny Scooter.  Not good shots but look, uphill it's a walking aid, down hill it's a scooter








Oh, and about those pleasantries – the Swedes appear as reluctant to engage as the Norwegians. And again I don’t mean to be offensive, it’s just a different approach. None of the “familiarity” of more southern Europeans. If you walk in to a breakfast room and say “Good morning” generally you are looked at gone out! Again though all very friendly if you do have to communicate.

Now settled in a small hotel in the centre of  Ostersund. It is in a pedestrian precinct so had to park my bike some distance away and carry my stuff here. That was abit of a pain but cheered up by these little dragon litter bins







And on that happy note .........Night night