A Peaceful Easy Feeling ...

Day 2 on Camino

Navarette to Carrion de los Condes    144miles, 10 more and I'm half way!

Another early start – for me – but as the hostel was actually on the Camino route I was aware of walkers passing below my window well before I was up and dressed.

When I did venture out of the front door at 6.30 it was still pitch black and this outwardly frail woman walking past stopped to ask me if she was on the right path. I saw she must have been at least 10 years older than me but  she marched off into the beam of her head torch with a determination I envied.

By the time I followed her - had my breakfast of bread, fresh figs and strong coffee and loaded the bike -  it was getting light.

A wonderfully peaceful day mostly spent riding immediately alongside the Camino or actually along it through the Rioja vineyards.

 This was thrilling as it is exactly what I wanted to do but it also increased both respect for those walking and apprehension for my own walk in 2 days’ time. 

Just riding along for mile after mile in the sun with no sign of civilisation from horizon to horizon – except of course for other pilgrims but although I saw more today than yesterday there were still times when I was on my own – was daunting, thought provoking and humbling,  but I guess that’s what it is all about.

 "Sometimes we are called to dance on the wild edges of our lives and discover something new, or we have a sense that our lives have grown too small so we need to confront our fears of what is unknown, we need to welcome in strangeness to crack open unfamiliar parts of ourselves ….." ~ Christine Paintner, on Pilgrimage

There were two things I wanted specifically do today and the both were to start at Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

One was to cross the Rio Oja which supposedly gave its name to wine region and the other was to find out more about the saint the town was named after.

The two are liked in that Domingo Garcia who became Santo Domingo de la Calzada.was born in Viloria de Rioja in 1019 and although he wanted to devote his life to God and tried to enter the monasteries he wasn’t accepted. So, around the year 1040 he became a hermit in the forests which occupied the site on which this city now stands. From his home he was able to see how difficult the pilgrimage was for those undertaking it and he began to work to help them by building a bridge to cross the Oja River and a hospital where pilgrims could seek shelter, both at the town which now bears his name.

I’m a bit vague on why and how he became a saint but one of the miracles attributed to him concerns two chickens, well actually a rooster and a hen.

Word has it that the son of German pilgrims was hanged for a crime he didn’t commit but when the parents went  to see their son’s body he tells them he is still alive having been saved by the Saint who supported his body. The parents apparently rush off to the magistrate to ask for their son’s pardon and release but the magistrate, who is having his tea tells them to go away as their son is as dead as the two cooked chickens on his table. At which point the two cooked fowl jump up and start doing what live chickens do.

The Chicken coop in the Cathedral

In memory of this miracle a live rooster and hen are kept in the most ornate chicken coop you’ve seen in the cathedral. For animal lovers there are actually several couples – all reputedly descendants of aforementioned cooked chickens - and they work a shift system.

To get back to the river, I have a thing about crossing rivers when I travel, there is something that makes me feel connected with the river’s story – the Mississippi, the Rio Grande, the Nile, all bring back great memories … well I wanted to cross the Oja  ... and I like the wine!

I found the main crossing just outside Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The bridge had been renovated and restored several times – a bit like Trigger’s broom (for my colonial friends, that’s another story, see me afterwards).

The bridge and the shrine were beautiful, the river less so ….. but it was the dry season.

 I did find the river again accidently when I got lost ....

and it did have water at that spot.

Crossing the river I rode on to Viloria de Rioja to see where Domingo was born. It is a fascinating small hamlet, smack on the Camino.

 St Domingo de la Calzada.

 They are celebrating his 1000^th anniversary – not a small thing you’d think -    but the church where he was christened was shut and the only facility available for the scores of pilgrims resting there was a water tap.

I am still amazed at the wide range of people walking, some seemingly out for a stroll with just a walking stick yet miles from anywhere and others carrying rucksacks nearly as big as they are  (that’ll be me!).

A bit far away, but this guy had the right idea  ... let someone else do the donkey work!





And finally, I'm pleased to see that they appreciate real culture in this part of the world ....

In celebration of "Arado Oxidado"

Here is where I am tonight.....

                            A bit wordy today isn't it. Sorry. Talk again tomorrow ....