Black Forest to the Black Sea - on to Croatia.

 As I set off this morning the first sighting of the river was at the  bridge crossing just outside Baja ... and seeing the sign I realised  that I'm an exonymist  ... yes I had to look it up as well ... in referring to the river by the name I know it as but of course it's called differently by the locals of the countries it flows through.

So we started in Germany following the Donau , then the Dunaj  through Slovakia , the Duna in Hungary today and later, I hope, the Dunav through Croatia, Serbia and Bulgaria and finally the Dunărea in Romania. 

By the way it's called the Dunai in Ukraine just the other side if the delta to Tulcea in Romania where I'm hoping to end up but keeping well away from there.

Can I return to the subject of how the apparent culture in Slovakia and Hungary has made the people seem to me, well putting it bluntly, rude.  I accept that's probably not their intention  .. no different to me saying "hey up" to southerners in the street I guess, but you get nothing back (Actually I don't say "Hey up " to anyone!)

Anyway, suddenly and markedly it changed during the course of the evening and people where exceptionally friendly and helpful. Pathetic linguist that I am it also took me a while to realise there was a lot of German mixed in with responses to my poor attempts at communication. Further research ... well I can only eat so much pork and drink so much beer ... say that this part of Hungary has a large population  “Danube Swabians” descendants of the settlers from Germany who  were encouraged to repopulate the area after the collapse of the Otterman Empire  

Even the signs are friendly. When I stopped to look at waht I though was a Toll Booth but turned out to be a shrine I noted this one....
 ... and others ....

                                                                                                            

   Talking of signs, having so many                                                                         boundary changes over time, even in                                                                    our own lifetimes can be a pain for the  sign writers, and expensive for  the local  authority!

Climbing up higher on the western bank the crops changed from root veg and  corn and vineyards began, I don't know when picking time actually is but it cant be far away because the Black grapes were delicious and opportunity to sample the wares of the many wineries increased. Obviously couldn't stop and sample but I may seek out some Hungarian and Croatian wine when home just to see.

As in a lot of European countries there are so many shrines along the roads and I admit I don't really understand their significance.

Some times you will see 2 or 3 within a mile or so. They even put them up in the air!

The villages I passed through were as we all imagine I guess with some                                                      really run down but others in the same street could be exceptionally                                                          ornate.

It was interesting to see this sign at the now 

defunct Hungarian/Croatian border. Why just the locals and us and the Germans. Obviously this part of the world hasn't seen enough Hen and Stag does!!!

Just after entering Croatia I wanted to visit a WWII memorial at Batina. It commemorated the success of the Red Army and Yugoslavian Partisans over the Axis Powers, including Hungary, in 1944.  You can see why there may still be old sores around an area like this. But a beautiful and peaceful palace now with a view that takes in Hungary, Croatia and Serbia. 

And of of course the Dunav, sshe's still there.

  

 Well, the day didn't go as planned from this point on so a late evening ....I'll leave it there and talk tomorrow,

Black Forest to the Black Sea - Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Cold, Cold Faces

 I've mentioned the language problem and I know we all experience it when we go to a country whose language we haven't bothered to learn but here I've experienced an issue for the first time in my travels ... the cold definite "Nem!"    No.

It is confusing, well at least to an aging brain like mine, as when you ask for something and perhaps have to go through a Master's level of Charades to a point where you think you may be understood and you get that response "Nem!"  it's reasonable I think to assume that whatever you want is unavailable.

For example, you try miming butter when you haven't got the bread with you...a tip .. it is very similar to a mime to determine if the breaded stuff you see in front of you is fish  ... without the splishy splashy noises obviously.?  It wasn't it was pork and very delicious too.

But I digress, having determined that madam shopkeeper didn't have butter I found it in the Chiller. But when I took it to the counter there wasn't a flicker of ... well anything.

Why do I travel ... well I read and then something catches my imagination. Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath was my inspiration to go to Oklahoma --- Route 66 was a bonus. I read this in a guide book  " ... the fields are on fire in the fall when the paprika is ripe and ready to be picked. The blazing red colours create an unforgettable view ..."  Let's face it, you are going to want to see that. No? Have you no soul?

The Paprika Museum Kilocsa, Hungary

And ... there was a Paprika Museum. Yes I kid you not  ...  in Kilocsa the self proclaimed capital of Paprika Production.

As museums of local production it is really interesting, one of the best I've been too... mind you, as the Pencil Museum in Keswick is on my list it's a pretty low bar.

I was keen to get out into those "flaming fields" and although they didn't really live up to the hype they were great to see, fields and fields along the route.

Now, as my family know, flexibility is the 4th dimension of planning, well my planning. And the route for this trip is based on the Velo 6 Danube Cycle Trail ... as in pedal cycle ... did you ever call them push-bikes ... and so sometimes this intrepid explorer on a wonderful motorcycle could not boldly go where the lycra brigade could.

I guess if I'd been Ewan McGregor on one of his sponsored BMW GS's it would have been a walk in the park but my trusty Pan was not having the sand and gravel so back we go.

After going the Long Way Round ... get it, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman, no, ok ...  tonight's stop came in site ... Baja, still in Hungary.

    and well worth the journey.

And I've done 905 miles since Donaueschingen and as the Danube is 1770 miles long I should now be over half way. Perhaps not quite given I do get lost a bit but still on target to get to the Black Sea for my birthday.

                     Here's hoping.

Black Forest to the Black Sea - Another start!

 

A few miles east of Esztergom in Hungary

Seems like there are many “starts” to this trip, the one from home, the one from the source in Germany and now I feel the one moving down to the Balkans. Alright for the purists I know that Slovakia and modern Hungary are not considered Balkan States but then rather let me put it as an ending… the end of what I think of as Europe.

All the sights I’ve seen so far as stunning as they have been I think I could have experienced on a river cruise or regular holiday … most were geared up for tourists, and tourists there were … hoards  of them. 

OK, am I a tourist or a traveller, discuss!

But let's start properly. I've yet to stay at a place that is actually on the river bank, I don't know if I will, but when I set off in a morning it is always good to get that first sight again to reassure me I'm going ok.  This morning was particularly spectacular, my photography doesn't do it justice but on another wonderfully bright and sunny morning it was good to see Donna like this!

My route this morning was to be around the Danube bend and "cutting through the Transdanubian Mountains" it gets a terrific write up in all the guide books...I have to say though that it is probably better viewed from a cruise boat than the road which was a long way from the river at times. I did drop down to see the Tahitótfalu to Vacs Ferry as I hadn't seen a vehicle ferry yet.

I'd passed a few foot passenger ferries and they looked a bit of a risky business. They don't have engines but are linked to a high cable that is strung across the river and use the river's current and the captain's control of a long rudder to cross. The cable keeps the ferry from drifting downstream while allowing it to move sideways across the river's flow. 

The Tahitótfalu – Vác Ferry

The vehicle ferry looks a much better bet ...

I've been amused at some of the road signs I've seen. Some have a real "quaint" touch.

Look at that car and motorcycle!

 

And the Top Hat!

No idea what this means but don't try it at home.

As I said the route today wasn't all that wonderful ... well the ride was but the views weren't.

That is though until I rounded a curve and Budapest came into view ...

                                                                                      and wow my day was made!

My day is done ....

                 jo ejszakat

Black Forest to the Black Sea - and people getting away with it!

I have no knowledge of, or interest in ,Modern Art but when I read about the apparently well respected  Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum i found the description of its setting was too tempting to miss and fortunately it was only 8 miles from my Europop infested pension and smack bang on the Danube.

On a man made peninsular facing back up river to Bratislava the building itself is dazzling and surrounded by a sculpture garden. On a glorious sunny morning it was wonderful strolling round looking at those sculptures ... I tried walking round inside too ... but philistine that I am I could not but think that "Art is anything you can get away with!" (Said by Marshall McLuhan apparently not Andy Worhol) is so, so true. And yes there was Worhol's masterpiece.

I was thrilled though to find that even a rusty plough can be awork of art ... I have one so that's my winter project sorted,

There was an excellent café too and I must admit I did while away most of Saturday morning there...

                                                                                                        A hard day at the office!

 A strange find on the way in to the museum. Apparently there is a Pilgrim  Route from Bratislava to Santiago de Compostela that joins up with the route I took in Spain a few years ago.

The water surrounding the Museum didn't look so much like a river as a lake... and a few miles further down stream you find out why ...  the  Gabcikovo Dam and hydroelectric power plant.

As with pictures of the river ... and churches ...and castles ,,, I'll limit photos of Dams but this was the first I'd come across  ... and if I make it to the Iron Gates Dam I must show that. 

The Dam was proposed in 1953, begun in 1977 and didn't start producing power til 1990's.  That was partially because as dams on the Danube ( and elsewhere I guess)  must significantly harm wildlife there has always been strong opposition to them and partially because the project was initially a joint effort between Hungary and Czechoslovakia but Hungary eventually pulled out.

Inside the Dam's visitor centre there is a 17 minute film of why it was all worth it ...  The Cycle Route Book I'm basing my trip on is fairly neutral in most things but must have had input from the same PR guys when it acknowledges  " ... the destruction of the floodplain landscape and the destruction of a sensitive ecosystem .." but goes on to say "instead a huge reservoir has been created that amazes visitors with its masses of water" Yeah right, Dam One, Sturgeons Nil!

Sorry, I'm going on a bit aren't I.

It is though an amazing construction with several generating stations and 2 massive Locks.

From the video.

Oh and mentioning churches, well I was, I've been showing you the really big ones. This one must get the "Smallest" prize it was in Sap or Szap.

Well nearly at my day's destination.....that's it across the river Esztergom in Hungary 

 taken from Slovakia.

and the Basilica ...

                                       ... and one happy traveller ...

 Talk tomorrow...

Black Forest to the Black Sea - and on to Slovakia.

 It has been truly a day of contrasts today.... riding my beautiful bike along the twisty roads following the river in brilliant sunshine and 27 deg is motorcyclists' heaven!

However within 8 or 9 miles of last nights stop is the Mauthausen Concentration Camp and the memorial to the 90,000 people from 40 different countries who died there. I won't dwell on that experience save to say 2 things.

How can we ask today "How did people let it happen"  

              and if Donald Trump visited the site these plaques may show him the true role and service of American Troops.

The rest of the day was like a travel programme....just view after view ... and, forgive me Gary and Bruce a bit like the American in Europe "it's Friday must be Slovakia.

Now I've never been on a River Cruise as I've said and although there are some lovely little towns and villages nestled along the river  ...

... I am noticing that there is an awful lot of bare green banking between places now. Still I suppose that's what the Gin and Tonic Deck is for!

As I travelled east through Austria the river got slightly more industrialised. In fact the factories around the docks in Linz could hardly be seen from the hills above the city due to the yellow smog hanging over them all.

I hit Vienna at rush hour on Friday evening so the centre held no attraction for me. Well you may say that’s not keeping to task – you are meant to be following the Danube. 

Here’s a pub quiz question then, What River flows through the centre of Vienna? You are right, it’s not the Danube. That flows around the city to the north. It started is northward progression in the 13th century becoming fixed in its current route in mid 19th century which means it wasn't even running through Vienna when Strauss wrote his hit (and ... spoiler alert ... it isn't even blue, it a mucky green colour)

The waterways in Vienna are Donaukanal and The River Wien

And no Mark I didn’t know that before I planned this trip … I'm as knowledgeable about Geography and Classical Music as I am Geology!

On arriving in Slovakia Bratislava was a surprise...as you approach the city it looks surrounded by scars in the hills from quarrying which bodes ill but it is so beautiful yet modern.

This photo obviously not mine.

Not speaking, or even being able to guess a rough interpretation of the language is an issue. I admit it does make casual acquaintances seem distant or brusque but to be fair how should they be expected to react to an old guy in big baggy dayglow clothes obviously unsuitable for the weather who mutters "Morning" with an unrecognisable english accent..

The staff at the places I’ve stayed have all been friendly and helpful though and most, after apologising for their bad english, put me to shame. 

They have all been fairly "straight laced" places but tonight's Pension in Rusovic was a kind of a cross between a bierkeller and what I imagine an old wester saloon to be like. 

Oh ... but the music,  makes me feel as if I'd been transported to the Eurovision Song Contest and Slovakia Nil Points!

Good Night!