Black Forest to the Black Sea ... now you see it, now you ...er still see it!

 

Well I guess you could say the trip starts properly today...I'm saying goodbye to Hotel Waldblick where they let me put my bike in their garage so no one taking the micky out of me for covering my beloved bike in a tarpaulin ... and setting off along the Danube at last. 

Remember yesterday when I gazed pensively at the water flowing from the spring at the source of the Breg and I said it was amazing to think that some of this water will end up in the Black Sea  ... or even the Rhine ....well here's the explanation.

Some 20 miles from Donaueschingen just after the Danube has sorted itself out and is heading for the Black Sea it disappears .. or it does for an average of 200 days a year ... and leaves a dry riverbed. This is know as the Danube Seepage.  The young river flows over karsified rock ... my Civil Engineering friend will know what this is, I didn't ... and is full of sink holes, caves and the like and so down the water goes.

Then it reappears at different points, some rising the continue on as the Danube BUT some goes into Lake Constance and eventually flows into the North Sea via the Rhine.

This then explains this sign near the source of the Breg

       and starts me thinking of next years trip!

Now, I didn't know all this and so was looking forward to walking along the seepage like these children shown on a sign near the seepage site..... unfortunately today was not one of the 200 days so the Danube was in full flow.....

                     there are going to be a lot of pics of water in this blog ... the warning is in the title ... but I promise I won't post a picture every time the river comes into sight.

So moving away from the river I'm finding the churches fascinating...I think most in the area I'm passing through today are Catholic ... I'm sure I'll be told if I'm wrong  ... but the contrast on the skyline when they are based on Orthodox architecture with the globes is wonderful. 

          ... and loved this mural....it's how I imagine myself... hey I had hair like that once, 

                but my bike then was like this ...

... not quite easy rider eh!.        

In Bad Gogging tonight  ...   honestly  ...  217 Miles completed and hopefully counting.

Good night.

Black Forest to the Black Sea ... The source... which source?

Riding from the source of the Danube… an easy statement to make eh …wrong!

The source of the Danube River has been a bit of a touchy subject because there’s been rivalry between 3 competing sites … the source of the river Breg, a spring in Donaueschingen and the confluence of the 2 rivers the Breg and the Brigach.

If you accept the claim that it really starts at the confluence of the two source rivers then Hydrologically speaking (never thought I’d use that term in a blog)  the source of the Danube is the source of the River Breg which is longest and has a greater flow than the Brigach. 

The Breg which rises near Furtwangen just a few miles from Donaueschingen  at  a place near St. Martin's Chapel is also called the source of the Danube or Donauquelle and is now protected as a natural monument.

But romantically …and who doesn’t like a bit of romance … “by agreement of the German Parliament” who got involved, the source of the Danube is now considered a spring located in a stone basin on the grounds of the Prince of Fürstenberg's palace in Donaueschingen as “it has been bubbling in the city since 1488”.

Would it be cynical to suggest a few brown envelopes were distributed by the good Burgermeister of Donaueschingen.    

Anyway…as I’m here and it seems important I decided to visit all 3 then I can’t go wrong.  The confluence of The Breg and Brigach was a wonderfully peaceful place.

 Amazing to think that some of this water will end up in the Black Sea  ....... or even the Rhine ....why will be revealed in tomorrows blog hopefully.

A bizarre thing happened as I walked down to the statue at the source of the Breg. This text came up on my phone, honestly!!!

            I often go wrong on trips but ...

And just so you know how much I rough it on these trips by having to eat local…Apfelkuchen ... thanks for the recommendation Heidi!

Ah well .. On the road proper tomorrow.....

2840km to go according to the plaque at the spring in the  the grounds of the Prince of Fürstenberg's palace in Donaueschingen.

Talk later

 

To the Source

 

Well, finally on my way but uneventful so far, just a long slog south to the Chunnel then mile munching on motorways through France Belgium, Luxembourg to Donaueschingen the town in the Black Forest where the Danube starts. 

I say uneventful, and it was, but sobering at times as I rode past Ypres, Mons, Charleroi ... places our grandad had fought over a hundred years ago and here I was riding purely for pleasure.

The "long slog" ended dramatically when I entered Germany and the roads and scenery changed. I haven’t been to the Black Forest before and although it was dusk WOW… so beautiful and so vast. 

I had intended to split the journey down more but the weather forecast was strong winds and thunderstorms, so I kept going as long as it kept fine … and it kept fine all the way so arrived in Donaueschingen eightish tonight.

It’s obviously not the time of year when normal blokes take motorcycle trips. I’ve been on shuttles packed with bikes wasn’t another bike on time I had a carriage to myself  … is that an omen ?? 

You always see something on road trips that make you say “What” or “Why” to yourself.

On the way into Calais I saw a massive Viking God on the back of a truck …. ”What?”  

Then these pics turn up on facebook and I see there was a Giant's Festival earlier that day. Looks like it was throwing it down so the Viking God must have been with me.

The “Why?” was this ….. no idea!

Well one tired would be biker so off to bed.....talk tomorrow Viking God and WiFi permitting,

Good night.

Black Forest to the Black Sea.

From its twin source in Donaueschingen in the Black Forest the Danube flow southeast for 1,770 miles passing through or bordering Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia,  Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova, and Ukraine to the Black sea

1. Among the many cities on the river are four national capitals: Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, and Belgrade.
2. 
   
3. There is a Eurovelo cycle route all the way so if those guys in lycra and no engine can do it why not some old geezer with 1300cc of assistance.

The trip was originally planned for earlier this year but real life got in the way so hopefully the dream seeking will actually happen   

                                              

 ... now planned to leave the UK on September 12th... watch this space.    Please!

  Finishing the Trans Canada Highway!

Day 3  Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island to Baddeck, Nova Scotia 307km

Another wet ... very ...day dawned!

Not too far to ride initially, only 53 km to Wood Islands Ferry Terminal to get the ferry across to Caribou in Nova Scotia.

I arrived at the ferry check-in nearly 3 hours early as I had been reluctant to stop on such a short journey and go through palaver of taking all my gear off.. lovely and warm on bike with it on.. sauna like if sitting inside  in it.

 The ladies in the Check-in cabin told me there were no hot drinks in the main terminal as it was too early in the season for the restaurant to be openbut I could ride down to Murray Harbour 15 minutes away to a cafe there.. . based on situation described in previous paragraph I decided that I'd rather forego hot drink and just go for a dry sit down.

In the Terminal 2 more ladies were sitting around waiting... one, the Terminal Manager, for customers and the other, the Loading Supervisor for someone or something to load. So we sat and talked and during conversation my lack of coffe came up.. "no problem" says Kelly, the loading Supervisor "I've got some" - and off she went amd made me a cup. That's the wonder of travelling - you meet people that refresh your belief in human nature.

The ferry was much bigger than I'd anticipated but, at this time of year only a few local souls, trucks - and the odd motorcyclist - me - using it.

The crossing was  unaventful but as the bow doors opened I had a glimmer of what Noah must have felt like on a bad day ... it was bucketting it down ..and this time 245km to Baddeck.

Didnt see much on this ride ... I don't use my visor... cant see through it when wet ... and my glasses were either dripping with rain or clouded with condensation ... but  I did notice the bright neon lights on Cannabis Stores glittering through the murk in some small towns offering marijuana - its been legal here since 2018 - oh so tempting!

Pleased to have arrived at Telegraph House in Baddeck.

 .. the room at Telegraph House was so warm and spacious.

Talking of  Telegraph House ... look up the history of this place... under 5th generation ownership it is seeped in communications history..

Was recommended to eat ot the Freight Shed... far better than it sounds - great fish and chips ... and of course local beer. 

Cheers ... and goodnight!

  Finishing the Trans Canada Highway!

Day 2  Degelis, Quebec to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

671 km

Jet lag still making me wake up at silly o'clock so decided on an early start. A bit of a shock to find frost on the bike but airtemp was above freezing and roads dry so all was good.

In fact sun came out and it was a wonderful warm day so thought I'd push on as rain forecast tomorrow.

I did.  Left Quebec Province, crossed New Brunswick Province, briefly entered Nova Scotia .. because I missed the Highway Divide ... and then crossed over the amazing Confederation Bridge - look it up -  on to Prince Edward Island.

Stayed the night in a beautiful - once - Heritage House - in Charlottetown. Needs a bit of TLC but had just been taken over by a keen, young couple so let's hope.

As the main aim of the trip is to finish the Trans Canada Highway - with Iceberg and Moose Spotting considered a bonus - I'm not topping as much as usual because the weather forecast is dire... am seeng things to perhaps look into more on way back!

  Finishing the Trans Canada Highway!

Day 1   Montreal to Degelis  523 km

On way...eventually! neither was i if honest...I booked it in February.

When I went to pick up bike it wasnt't ready...Service manager thought it was wanted tomorrow. Boss not much pleased... neither was i if honest...I booked it in February.

Anyway...all squared up, including new rear tyre given distance I was planning on doing and off at midday.

The bike is exactly like my own except a little older and more battle scars but it means one less thing to overcome on the Canadian highways!

I got out of Montra

l surprisingly easy .... and at last starting on a dream 5 years in waiting...that darn covid thing! 

Not much more to add really as just a fast pull to make up for delayed start.